How to - Frequently Asked Questions

Below you will find answers to frequently asked questions that may not have been covered in the other "How to" sections.

- Our family is expecting a baby, how will this affect our pet? And what preperations should we make?

-My dog has destructive behavior, what should I do?

-I plan on bringing a second pet into my home, how will my current pet react to this, and how do I prepare for the transition?

-I am moving into a high-rise apartment building, what safety precautions do I need to make for my pet?

-I seem to be having problems litter-box training my cat or kitten, what can I do?

-I've lost my pet! What do I do?? How can I prevent this from happenning again??

-What is microchipping? And how does it work?

-How can I protect my pet from the many harms found in the outdoors?

-I am going on vacation - What do I do with my pet?

-What is rabies? Is my pet in danger of contracting rabies? How do I prevent this?

-Are certain toys potentially dangerous for my pet?

-Is it safe for my cat to live outdoors?

-What steps can I take to make sure my pet is prepared for winter?

What steps can I take to make sure my pet is prepared for winter?

When temperature and snow start to fall, your pet will need a little extra care from you.

• Cats and dogs need protection from wet and cold both inside and outside your home. Cats should stay indoors during the winter, as they are extremely vulnerable to snow, ice and extreme cold. The best way to protect your dog from the harsh elements is to keep him inside, except for supervised walks on a leash.

• If you need to bundle up, so does your pet. In very cold weather, put a warm coat on your short-haired dog and take short walks.

• Long-haired dogs should not be outside for more that 20 minutes in very cold weather . They are just as susceptible to sudden temperature changes as you are.

• Animals can suffer from frostbite and hypothermia even early in winter. Frostbite is most common on your pet's paws. Symptoms of frostbite may not appear until a couple of days after exposure. Watch for swollen paws and your pet fussing over the area. If this happens, take your pet to your veterinarian immediately. On the way, wrap your pet in dry warm blankets and apply a warm (not hot) water bottle to the affected area.

• If your dog is outside with you a lot in the winter, he will need more calories to produce body heat, so increase the amount you feed him.

• If your pet gets very little exercise during the winter, decrease his calorie intake to avoid excess weight gain.

• Antifreeze tastes good to pets, but it is a deadly poison. Keep an eye out for antifreeze puddles. If you suspect your pet has ingested antifreeze, rush him to your veterinarian immediately. The most likely source of the poison is a radiator drainage spot in a garage or parking area, which should be flushed with water immediately.

• When you are outside with your pet, watch out for chemicals used to melt snow on sidewalks, as they can irritate your pet's paws. Always remember to wipe its paws with a wet cloth after an outing and remove the ice between his paw pads. If your dog's paws look sore or irritated, apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly. You can also purchase commercial boots to protect his paws from the elements.

• Slap the hood of your car or honk the horn a few times before starting the engine on cold days to startle any animal sleeping under the car. Cats may crawl up under your car seeking shelter and warmth near the engine. They may become caught in the fan belt and suffer serious injury when someone starts the engine.

Remember, if it's too cold for you to go outside, then it's too cold for your pet.

Is it safe for my cat to live outdoors?

NO

There is no question that indoor cats miss out on plenty of outdoor action. They don't get a chance to fight with other cats or dogs ... or suffer injuries from gunshot wounds, punctures and thrown bottles or rocks - the actions of cruel and sadistic people ... they miss out on being stolen, hit by cars or the discomfort of fleas, ticks and worms ... and they don't get a chance to feel the pain and distress of deadly viruses.

There is no way to ensure that an outdoor cat is safe at all times. Don't be misled: the "Great Outdoors" is anything but great for your cat.

• Even if you have a six-foot fence... Don't be fooled. A fence will not stop even the laziest or smallest of cats from getting out.

• Even if you can't keep your cat inside... have you tried closing the windows or putting up screens? Try not to leave doors to the outside open, and teach your children to close doors when they go in or out.

• Even if your cat likes to sun himself/herself... he can sun himself by any window - indoors . If you really feel that your cat needs to experience outdoor life, get a harness and leash, and enjoy the experience together. An enclosed, screened-in area for play and exercise right in your own backyard or garden is a great alternative to the outdoor experience.

• Even if your cat's litter box smells... keep its litter box clean and deodorized and it will not smell. Remove fecal matter daily.

• Even if your cat "knows" how to avoid cars... even if this were true, all it would take is another cat, dog, mouse, shiny object or blowing paper to lure your cat into the street and the path of oncoming cars. There are cruel and sadistic people who would swerve to hit a cat rather than swerve to miss it. Nearly half of all animals dead-on-arrival at clinics and shelters are the result of injuries from cars.

• Even if your cat needs exercise and likes to play with other cats... allowing your cat to fraternize with other cats is a good way to transmit viruses that can make your cat very sick. If your cat needs company, adopt another cat from your local shelter for it to play with, and keep them both inside. Take the time to play with your cat. Normally your cat will entertain itself and get exercise on its own. If it occupies its time by clawing drapes and/or furniture, buy a scratching post.

• Even if your last cat went outdoors and loved it... an indoor cat can live happily and healthily for nearly 20 years. The average life span of outdoor cats is three years - if they're lucky.

• Even if you have always let your cat out... believe it or not, you can change a cat's behaviour. It takes time and patience. At first your cat may cry, but don't give in. When your "closed-door policy" comes into effect, be sure to give your cat lots of extra attention and entertainment. Since staying inside means that he will have much more contact with your family and friends, your cat will soon look forward to human company and will become a more affectionate, cherished member of your family.

Are certain toys potentially dangerous for my pet?

Various commonly used pet toys could be dangerous for your pet. Make sure your pet does not play with:

String, Yarn & Drapery Cords
These perennial favourites could lead to strangulation, or could cause intestinal blockage if your pet were to swallow any of them.

Tinfoil, Corks & Cellophane Wrap
Although pets love to play with these toys, if left un-
attended, they may swallow and choke on them.
Cellophane wrappers can turn "glassy" in your pet's stomach and cause internal bleeding.

Rubber Bands
These seemingly harmless playthings can be fatal if swallowed.

Christmas Tinsel & Angel Hair
Cats love tinsel and angel hair at Christmas. Unfortunately, if eaten, tinsel may become lodged in their intestines and bowels, while angel hair, which is thinly spun glass, may cause internal bleeding.

JUST ABOUT ANYTHING THAT IS DANGEROUS TO A CHILD IS DANGEROUS TO A PET.
LET COMMON SENSE PREVAIL AS YOU MAKE YOUR HOME PET-PROOF.

What is rabies? Is my pet in danger of contracting rabies? How do I prevent this?

Background

The rabies virus has been around since the second century BC, but has only been a serious problem in Ontario since the 1950's. Despite a drop in rabies incidents over the past few years, Southern Ontario still has the highest concentration of animal rabies in North America. The most effective method of rabies control has proved to be live trapping, vaccinating and release of healthy wildlife before rabies becomes a problem.

Watch for…
Foxes and skunks are potentially the main carriers of the rabies virus. Bats, raccoons and groundhogs are less likely to carry the disease but are still potential carriers.

A dramatic change in behaviour is a sign of rabies in wildlife. A relatively shy animal may become aggressive; a normally aggressive animal, withdrawn. Drooling, disorientation, stumbling, unfounded aggression or any other strange behaviour should be reported to your local humane society or animal control department immediately.

Symptoms of rabies in domestic animals fall into two categories:

• ”Furious” rabies, which is seen in 75 per cent of cats who have contracted the virus. Signs of furious rabies are extreme aggression and bizarre behaviour (such as erratic walking patterns, biting at everything and wild running).

• ”Dumb” rabies, which is seen in 75 per cent of dogs who have contracted the virus. Signs of dumb rabies are lethargy, weakness and, often paralysis. Paralysis of throat muscles causes the characteristic frothing and drooling, because the affected animal is unable to swallow.

What to do…

The most common ways your pet can contract the rabies virus are through bites or scratches by infected animals or by coming in contact with that infected animal's body fluid, especially saliva. If your pet is not vaccinated and/or has broken skin (from a wound) anywhere on his body, your pet is susceptible to the rabies virus.

• To prevent your companion animal from becoming a rabies victim , always keep your pet's vaccinations up to date. Keeping your cat indoors and your dog on a leash at all times when outside are also safe and effective ways to avoid any chance of contact with rabid animals.

• The rabies virus has an incubation period of 10 days to one year. An infected animal may be contagious four or five days before actual symptoms appear. To be safe, if you suspect rabies, always have your pet checked.

• If you think your animal is acting strangely , or know it has been bitten by a wild animal, take your pet to a veterinarian immediately. If your pet has had contact with a wild animal, do not handle your pet without wearing gloves.

Humans are also susceptible to the virus. In 1992, roughly 2,400 people in southern Ontario (including members of the general public, wildlife workers and farmers) received anti-rabies vaccine.

• Vaccination usually consists of five relatively painless shots given in the arm over a four-week period to prevent the development of rabies. If the shots are not started soon after a bite occurs, they will not work. Once symptoms develop, rabies is fatal in animals and people.

• If you think you may have been bitten or exposed to rabies, contact your physician immediately. Cleanse the injured area with soap and flush the wound immediately to remove the infection.

Protect yourself…

You can protect yourself, your family and your pet from rabies in the following ways:

• Vaccinate all your pets.

• Never let your pet roam unattended (take your cat out for a walk using a leash and harness).

• Never let your pet out unattended at night.

• Educate your children and yourself about rabies and wildlife.

• If you see an animal behaving strangely or drooling excessively, contact your local humane society or animal control department immediately.

• Do not approach any domestic or wild animal that is acting strangely. Contact your local humane society or animal control department immediately.

• Do not touch dead animals. Contact your local humane society or animal control department.

• Do feed the birds. Do not feed wildlife.

• Do not panic when you see wildlife. Observe from a distance and enjoy.

• Do not approach wild animals too closely or try to keep them as pets.

• Do not touch immature wildlife, no matter how cute.

• If you feed local feral (wild) cats, do so only during the day and remove any uneaten food before dark to prevent conflict between cats and wildlife. If you can safely secure your local feral (wild) cats and wish to help, have them vaccinated immediately. Do not touch feral (wild) cat with bare hands - Use a pair of gardening gloves.

• Ensure garbage cans have raccoon-proof lids or keep them in a secure enclosure and never leave them out overnight.

• Keep wildlife from living in and around your home by sealing any holes, capping chimneys and screening windows. For more information about how to deter wildlife from living in your home or on your property, contact the Information Co-ordinator at 416 392-2273

Rabies protection benefits you, your family and your pet!

I am going on vacation - What do I do with my pet?

Many pets are given up at vacation time because of perceived inconvenience. Thousands of pets left with pet sitters are lost each year, when a little forethought could have prevented it. Here are some helpful hints about vacations and how to make them safe and enjoyable for your pet.

If your pet is not suited to travel, due to ill health or temperament, consider having a pet sitter come to your home, asking a family member, friend or neighbour to look after your pet or having your pet stay at a boarding facility. Take the time to explain your pet's routine and include a
list of instructions about what to do if your pet is lost. Make sure your pet is wearing a collar and tag and has had all
his vaccinations.

Live-In Pet Sitter

• Ideally, this person is a relative or friend who knows your pet (or gets to know your pet before you leave and will be with your pet most of the time).

• Before you go, leave an adequate supply of food, instructions about grooming and exercise routine, and telephone numbers where you can be reached. Phone your pet sitter a couple of times during your holiday to check on how your pet is doing.

Drop-In Neighbour

• Many neighbours will agree to stop by each day to feed, water and exercise your pet. Make sure you entrust this duty to a responsible person. Some students do this for a summer job - be sure to obtain references and check them.

Boarding Kennel

A kennel can be an excellent way to ensure top-quality care but its strange surroundings can be a psychological shock to your pet.

Visit the kennel and check for the following:

• Are the cages clean?
• Are the cages large enough for your pet?
• Is water available at all times?
• Do the animals bark, seem content and come to see you when you walk through?
• Do the kennel owners insist on all vaccinations?
• How often will your pet receive exercise? What kind?
• Is the boarding agreement complete and satisfactory?
• Is there a veterinarian on-call 24 hours a day? (You may want to verify this by calling the veterinarian's office).

Taking Your Pet With You

You can enjoy a vacation with your pet regardless of the method of transportation you choose, as long as you take the time to check ahead and make the proper arrangements.

• Be aware of any health risks (such as deer ticks, which carry Lyme disease) that your pet may encounter at any of your vacation stops and speak with your veterinarian about preventing or coping with these problems.

• Before you leave on vacation, make sure your pet has been checked by a veterinarian. You will need updated health certificates, medical and vaccincation records. Carry heartworm medication for dogs and be sure to have your cat vaccinated against feline leukemia, as your cat may come in contact with other cats.

• You will want to pack a leash, collar, harness, tags, license, medicine/first-aid kit, food, water bowl, treats, litter box, grooming tools, toys, your pet's favourite blanket or pillow and a scratching post. You should have double tags containing your home address and phone number, and the address and phone number of your destination, or that of a nearby relative, in case your pet becomes lost during the trip. You should also carry a good, recent profile photograph of your pet in case you are separated.

At the Cottage/Going Camping

• Although your pet may be on holidays, he can never take a vacation from its leash, collar and identification tag.

• Do not allow your pet to roam. Many companion animals become lost and confused in unfamiliar surroundings. Many die from malnutrition, stress or disease.

• Encounters with wild animals, such as raccoons and porcupines, can be very unpleasant and dangerous for your pet. Such confrontations can cause injury to all the animals involved, and can be costly, as well.

Travelling By Bus

• Most buses will not accept pets, but check with the bus company to confirm this.

Travelling by Car

• If your pet is not accustomed to car travel, take him for a few short rides before vacation time. Your pet should have a pleasant experience, such as a hike (with your dog) or a treat, at the end of these shorter jaunts, so that he associates car travel with rewards.

• Never leave your pet unattended in a car in warm weather, even with the window open. Interior car temperatures can rise dangerously high in a matter of minutes, and the heat could kill him.

• If you are travelling with a cat or other small animals, bring along a pet carrier. Be sure to let your pet become accustomed to it before leaving on your trip.

• Your pet should be in a carrier/crate or on a seatbelt harness (available at pet supply stores) for their own safety.

• To prevent motion sickness, do not overfeed your pet while travelling, especially before departing. Do not feed your pet for a few hours before a trip. Bring along fresh cool water and a familiar water bowl.

• Allow for exercise breaks during long trips. They're good for you and your pet! Try to walk your dog at his regular time.

• Do not let your pet hang his head out of the car window. This practice often causes damage to an animal's eyes or ears.

• Keep complete identification and a rabies tag on your cat or dog at all times, and be sure to have your pet microchipped . Carry current health and vaccination cerificates with you.

• Book your hotel/motel in advance. Check to see if they accept pets (there are several publications in print that include this information as well as web sites such as www.travelpets.com ). Do not leave your pet alone in a hotel/motel room without familiar toys and bedding.

Travelling by Plane

• Air travel is of the most concern when taking pets on holiday. The Toronto Humane Society does not recommend shipping pets by plane unless there is no alternative.

• Most airlines will take pets but not all will accept puppies and kittens. Cats and dogs with pug-nosed faces should not travel by air. They are susceptible to breathing difficulties and heat stroke in the cargo hold.

• Contact the airline well in advance to check regulations and services. Ask about other cargo on your flights and about placement of the cage.

• Try to book a non-stop flight or one with the minimum number of stops or transfers, so that your pet will not be on the plane any longer than necessary. In warm weather, select an early morning or late evening flight.

• Normally, pets are kept in the pressurized cargo area, but some airlines for a fee, will accept pets in the passenger cabin. Check with your airline to find out if they offer this option and any restrictions that may apply. Although it is not always possible, ask if you can supervise the loading and unloading of your pet. Be sure to advise the flight attendant that your pet is on board so that he or she can inform the captain.

• Make sure the carrier is large enough to be comfortable for your pet. Bring the carrier into the house a few days before you leave to allow your pet to become used to it. Pull a shirt out of the clothes hamper and put it inside to give the carrier a comforting, familiar smell.

• Quarantine conditions can be extremely stressful for companion animals. Check with the consulate or embassy of the country you will be visiting to learn about its quarantine regulations, required health certificates and the location for quarantine facility at your destination (sometimes they are located kilometeres miles away).

• For foreign travel, check with the consulate or embassy of the country you will be visiting for entry requirements. England and Hawaii, among other places, impose long quarantine periods.

Your pet must be in an airline-approved carrier. Make sure your pet's shipping container is well constructed. The proper cage, available from airlines or pet supply stores, should:

• Be large enough to allow your pet to stand, turn and lie down;
• Have a leak-proof bottom covered with absorbent material;
• Have ventilation on opposite sides, with exterior rims or knobs to prevent blocked air flow;
• Be labelled " LIVE ANIMAL ", with arrows indicating upright position. Include your name, your pet's name, your address, phone number and destination.

Before leaving:

• Feed your pet a light meal at least six hours before departure.
• Do not tranquilize your pet without your veterinarian's approval and instruction.

Pick up your pet promptly upon arrival at your destination. It is always wise to check your pet after he has been discharged from the plane. If you notice anything amiss, report it to the airline's customer relations representative. If you feel your pet's health is in question, seek veterinary attention. Ask for the results of the veterinary examination/treatment in writing, including the date and time your pet was seen.

Travelling By Train

Each railway line has its own policy regarding travel with pets. Check with the railway before making any plans.

• If you are travelling by train in Canada with your pet, you will pay a surcharge and your animal must be contained in an approved carrier or kennel. It will help your pet if his carrier contains a blanket or pad carrying a familiar scent. Your pet carrier will be boarded with the luggage in the baggage car. Not all trains on each route have a baggage car, so be sure to phone ahead.

• Ask how your pet's kennel will be secured in the baggage compartment.

• Your pet's health can be compromised by extreme heat or cold. The temperature outside will affect how comfortably your pet will travel. It is imperative that you ask if the baggage car is temperature-controlled and, if it is, at what temperature is it maintained. If the temperature inside the baggage car is not controlled, do not use the train as a means of travel for your pet.

It is always wise to check your pet after he has been unloaded from the train. If you notice anything amiss, report it to the railways's customer relations representative. If you feel your pet's health is in question, seek veterinary attention. Ask for the results of the veterinary examination/treatment in writing, including the date and time your pet was seen.

How can I protect my pet from the many harms in the outdoors?

Pets are not aware of the many dangers waiting for them outdoors and unfortunately, neither are many of their owners. It is your responsibility as a pet owner to keep
your pet indoors or under close supervision when outdoors so that it does not become lost or fall victim to any of the dangers listed below.

Disease

• Your pet can pick up diseases for which there are no preventative vaccinations.
• If your pet becomes ill or is injured while outdoors, you may not be aware of his condition until it's too late.
• Worms and fleas are easily contracted outside but not always easy to eliminate.

Neighbourhood Dangers

• Antifreeze and other chemicals stored or spilled in garages or driveways are dangerous.
• Lawns treated with pesticides are dangerous.
• Many garden plants are poisonous to animals if eaten.
• Your pet may eat spoiled food or splintering bones from the garbage.

People

• Always remember to be considerate of your neighbours - for your pet's sake! A pet left to roam freely will uproot flower beds and defecate and urinate on other people's property, causing needless frustration for your neighbours. Abuse of animals does occur but a supervised pet does not fall victim to uncaring individuals.

Predators

• Some dogs chase cats, causing injury and needless fear.
• Large dogs pose threats to smaller dogs.
• Unneutered cats frequently fight with one another.
• If you live near a ravine or wooded area, any number of wild animals could harm your pet. This may be "the way of nature" but you do not have to expose your pet to such situations.

Vehicles

• Some pets survive an encounter with a moving vehicle: thousands do not. An accident could be painful and expensive for you even if it is not fatal for your pet.

Weather

• Very hot or very cold weather is hard on your pet. It could also kill him. In severe weather - hot or cold - a pet can die from exposure or heatstroke in a surprisingly short time.
• Never leave your pet in a car for more than a few minutes.
• Never leave your pet outside in cold weather.
• Your pet's "fur coat" is not adequate protection from freezing temperatures.
• Winter salt on roads and sidewalks will cause irritation to foot pads and may burn.
• A cat seeking warmth may climb under the hood of a car, resulting in serious injury or death when the engine is started.

What is microchipping? And how does it work?

What is microchipping?

Microchipping is a method of pet identification that is proving very successful in reuniting lost animals and their owners. A tiny microchip enclosed in a special capsule is implanted underneath the skin of the animal's shoulders. The insertion may hurt while being carried out.

How does microchipping work?

Originally designed for use in livestock and wildlife, microchipping has rapidly gained popularity as a means of identification of dogs + cats.

Each microchip is programmed with a unique code number and emits a signal on a specific radio frequency. A portable scanner held closely over the animal's shoulders will read the number.

The Toronto Humane Society works with a company that operates the database and recovery system, which is a vital component of microchipping technology. When a stray comes into the shelter, the first thing the staff does is scan the animal. If the stray is microchipped, the special number is read and phoned into the operators. A check of the database will reveal vital information such as the name, address and the medical history of the animal. This information is recorded on a registration form when the microchip is implanted and must be updated if the owner changes his or her address.

Every cat and dog adopted from The Toronto Humane Society is implanted with a microchip. Staff in shelters and veterinary offices across North America can access vital information about your pet. The cost of a microchip is included in The Toronto Humane Society's adoption fee.

-I've lost my pet! What do I do?? How can I prevent this from happenning again??

As a responsible pet owner, you can prevent the loss of your pet by:

Licensing your dog at your local animal control office. Attaching a tag containing your name and phone number (or that of your veterinarian to your cat's collar). Having your pet microchipped (read The Toronto Humane Society Fact Sheet "Microchipping" for more information). As long as your pet is properly identified, and you have kept up your address, there will be no problem reuniting you and your lost pet.

How To Look For Lost Pets:

• Call the veterinarians in your area.
• Place signs accurately describing your pet in grocery stores, pet stores, on street posts, in laundromats.
• Place an ad in the newspaper and check the "Found Pets" section daily.
• Announce your pet's description over the public address system at local schools.
• Walk through your neighbourhood and call your pets name.
• Check in garages or sheds, your pet may be trapped or injured.
• Visit all local animal shelters to look for your lost pet.
• Keep looking!
  
  
  

-I seem to be having problems litter-box training my cat or kitten, what can I do?

House-soiling is one of the most common behaviour problems in cats.
It is normal for cats to have surface and location preferences for elimination. It is only when these preferences include the laundry hamper, your bed or your carpeting that these normal behaviours become a problem.

There is cause for immediate concern any time a cat does not use the litter box. However, there are a number of reasons cats break their litter-training, and to get to the root of the problem, you will have to play Sherlock Holmes for a little while!

Medical Causes:

Your veterinarian is an important person when it comes to solving the litter box mystery. Health problems can cause litter box problems, and cats do not always act sick, even when they are. For this reason, it is important to check with your veterinarian first. Typical medical causes include painful urination or bowel movements due to bladder infections or intestinal disorders. Because of the discomfort associated with eliminating, your cat may avoid the litter box and begin to seek other places, hoping to find a location where it does not hurt. Only a trip to the veterinarian for a thorough physical examination - which may include a urinalysis - can rule out a medical problem.

Spraying

If your cat is given a clean bill of health by your veterinarian, the next step is to determine whether your cat is spraying or urinating outside the box. Spraying is urine-marking behaviour, and is a cat's way of indicating ownership of its territory. It can occur because neighbourhood cats are outside, or because of conflicts between cats in a multi-cat household. Unfamiliar objects, smells or people in the house can also cause the behaviour. Spraying has nothing to do with the litter box habits. When a cat sprays, it stands up, backs up against a vertical surface and deposits urine at "cat height" against curtains, doors, walls, furniture and other solid surfaces. Its tail may quiver, and the cat may alternately lift its hind paws while spraying. Male, female, spayed or neutered, cats of any age may spray, although the behaviour is most common in unneutered males.

Spraying problems can be drastically reduced or even completely resolved by:

• Spaying/neutering unaltered cats in the household.
• Discouraging the presence of neighbourhood cats. Try blocking off windows where your cat can see neighbourhood cats.
• Resolving conflicts between cats in your household. Stress is often behind house-soiling, particularly spraying. A new baby, a new pet, moving or subtle changes in your lifestyle can also be very stressful to your cat.

Aversion to the Litter Box

For some reason, your cat has decided that the litter box is an unpleasant place to be. Have you changed the brand or type of litter lately? This is a common cause of cats abandoning the box. Change back to the litter your cat used before. Another reason is new scents in or around the box. Make sure you clean out the litter box daily and any cleansers you use to wash out the box are mild do not contain ammonia and are thoroughly rinsed away.

Surface Preferences

All animals develop preferences as to where they like to eliminate. These preferences may be established early in life, but they may also change overnight for reasons that we do not always understand. If your cat often reaches out and scratches the carpet after using the box, it may come to prefer the carpet over the litter box. Many cats seem to develop a preference for soft surfaces, such as piles of clothes or the bed, while others may prefer slick surfaces, such as the bathtub or the kitchen sink. Cats with an outdoor history may prefer dirt or grass.

To resolve a surface preference problem, the litter box needs to be made more like the textures your cat prefers for elimination, and the places your cat is soiling need to be made less attractive. For example, for a soft-surface preference, try the fine-grained, clumping litters. If your cat has been using the bathtub, give it a slick surface in the litter box by placing very little if any, litter in the box. If your cat has been outside, try generic potting soil in his litter box.

Location Preferences

Your cat may decide it likes to eliminate in a particular location. Maybe its preference is for a quiet, protected place, such as under a desk or in the closet. Your cat may like to go in a location where the litter box was kept previously, or maybe where a particular odour is located. Location preferences can be dealt with by moving the litter box to the preferred location, leaving it there until your cat uses it consistently for several weeks, and then very gradually (five or six centimetres each day) moving it back to where you want it to be. If your cat uses the litter box when you move it, then it is not a location preference problem.

Punishing your cat for a litter box problem will likely make the problem worse.

Remember, your cat cannot tell you the reason why its litter box is no longer a welcoming place, and it depends on you to help sort out the problem! With a little bit of effort, and a lot of love and patience, you will soon hear those familiar scratching and digging sounds.

-I am moving into a high-rise apartment building, what safety precautions do I need to make for my pet?

Your apartment is a terrific home for your feline friend. High above the busy streets your cat will be safe from speeding cars, dangerous diseases and cruel people. Living in an apartment might not protect your pet from serious injuries however; balconies, terraces and open windows can be unseen enemies if you do not take precautions.

While "high-rise-syndrome" is primarily a problem for city cats, even suburban and country cat owners need to take heed. While cats usually land on their feet, they can sustain severe injuries and/or death, depending on the distance of the fall and the type of surface on which they land. And because cats seem to like to perch in dangerous, high places and have little fear of heights, many owners believe they will not fall. But they do fall - thousands of them each year - from terraces, balconies, open windows and roof-tops. Sometimes a cat who has been watching a bird will become so forgetful, it may step out into thin air; sometimes a cat chasing a moth indoors can sail right through an open, unscreened window.

Don't let your cat become a victim

A determined cat can wiggle its way through the smallest opening of any window or sliding glass door. Be sure to screen your windows and keep your cat away from all other unprotected heights, such as roofs and terraces.

Don't assume that your cat knows what it's doing

"Oh, he's been on the balcony hundreds of times" is about as sensible as saying, "My child always plays with matches, and she's never started a fire!"

Tiny balcony ledges are a particular hazard to high-rise cats. A comfortable body harness and leash, held by the owner, is a cat's best protection against any falls. There is also a product available that fits into sliding glass doors to which you can attach a harnessed cat; it does not allow her to reach the edge of the balcony. Check with your local pet store.

If your cat is a sun-worshiper, consider attaching a cat-shelf to the inside windowsill that will allow her to sprawl out and soak up the sun.

Consider enclosing your balcony, floor to ceiling, with lattice, chicken-wire, netting or drapes that allow your cat to navigate safely. Lattice or chicken-wire also allows those with green thumbs to have climbing plants on the balcony.

If your cat should fall:

• Never assume that your cat has been killed, even if you look down and see her lying lifeless.

• Do not give up looking if your cat disappears after a fall. It is not uncommon for cats to hide in bushes or creep into buildings if the fall has upset or frightened them.

• Call your veterinarian immediately. Be specific about your cat's injuries. Your veterinarian will recommend steps to take for immediate medical treatment.

• If you cannot reach your veterinarian, contact your local emergency clinic or humane society.

Be aware that heights can be dangerous to your cat!

-I plan on bringing a second pet into my home, how will my current pet react to this? And how do I prepare for the transition?

Two Cats Can Live As Purr-fectly As One

The majority of households with more than one pet have cats, yet because of their nature, cats often pose a bigger challenge to owners than other pets. Their notorious aloofness can extend to other cats as well as to humans, particularly in the case of indoor pets who may not have seen another feline in years. For an indoor cat, even redecorating can be a traumatic experience!

You should keep the following criteria in mind before you adopt a second cat:

• Age: Your cat will best accept a kitten. If you put a one-year-old cat with your four-year-old cat, there will be a lot of hissing and spitting. The kitten should be at least 10 weeks old. Twelve to 16 weeks is ideal, unless your cat is a senior citizen; then spare it the nuisance of a rambunctious youngster, and adopt a mellow, adult companion.

• Gender: The cat's gender does not matter, as long as they are spayed or neutered at the appropriate time.

• Personality: Cats are like snowflakes - no two are the same. Take into account individual traits and quirks. If you have a laid-back cat, do not get a second cat who is a spitfire.

• Health: Owners often bring home disease with their second cat. The biggest concern is chronic viral infection. Feline leukemia is a leading natural killer of cats; it is infectious, and cats can have it and not show any symptoms. Have your cat vaccinated, and test the newcomer for this disease. Less lethal, but more common, are upper-respiratory infections, which frequently occur in cats from shelters. Protect your cat with a distemper shot. Parasites are typical too, especially among strays, so have your veterinarian check your new cat for worms, fleas and skin mites before you take it home. Most experts recommend a precautionary quarantine of three to seven days, at home or with the veterinarian.

Establishing the Relationship

Your cats will probably hiss at each other for the first two or three days, but you can help their relationship start off on the right paw. Ask someone who is not "pals" with your cat to bring the new animal in a carrier, so your pet can sniff it while they are separated. If the two seem to get along, remove the newcomer from the carrier and put it in a room with its own litter box. Open the door a crack and let the cats discover each other. Wait at least a week before leaving them alone together for long periods. You may want to alternate rooms in which they stay, so they will get used to each other's smell.

Bare-Bones Advice For Adding A Second Dog

Being pack animals, dogs are social and generally enjoy the company of other canines; however, additional dogs place more of a burden on pet owners than do multiple cats, because dogs require more attention than self-reliant cats. Do not adopt a second dog unless you are ready for double the walks, veterinary bills and belly-rubbing.

You should consider the following points when selecting another dog:

• Age: If you get a puppy between 10 and 14 weeks old, your two dogs should have a bright future together, but beware of pitfalls in the present. A puppy that young might bond so tightly to your dog that he will not care for people or listen to your commands, so do not leave the two alone together for long periods during the first month. Also, because young puppies will still be teething, be sure to keep the pup from using your dog as a teething ring. As with cats, old dogs present an exception to the rule. Do not inflict a peppy puppy on a 16-year-old dog who just wants peace and quiet.

• Gender: Opposites may attract, but be sure your pet is spayed or neutered. Two unneutered males can disturb the peace in your house with bickering, urinating and brawling.

• Personality/Breed: As with cats, heed individual trains; breed characteristics are more significant with dogs, however, and should be weighed carefully. Akitas, for example, have been bred to be aggressive towards other dogs.

• Size: Although size is a breed characteristic, it is worth singling out because it is important in choosing a second dog. There should not be a large disparity in size between your animals. A five-pound Pomeranian, for instance, might get hurt playing with a Doberman. The new dog should be the smaller of the two at the time it becomes acquainted with your family pet; then the first animal's status is as top dog won't change, no matter how large the newcomer grows to be.

• Health: Dogs are much less likely than cats to carry disease, but they should be examined by a veterinarian for problems such as kennel cough and worms. A bigger worry is parvo or distemper, which your new dog could be incubating without showing any signs of illness. Make sure your pet has been vaccinated against both diseases.

Establishing the Relationship

Before you bring your new dog home, have someone else take it to neutral territory where you and your first pet are waiting. Without having the dogs face off, you and your friend should walk them side by side for about 10 blocks. Towards the end of your stroll, let the animals meet and sniff each other before taking them to your house. In about an hour the other person should leave. For the next few days, keep the dogs from becoming competitive. Do not throw one stick for both to chase, or feed them in the same place at the same time. And make sure your first pet is not displaced, for instance, from a favourite arm chair. The process is similar to a desensitization program. Your dog gets accustomed to its new companion while learning the newcomer is a fixture in the home and does not present a threat. If necessary, keep the new dog under control - in a wire kennel crate or on a leash - while your older pet observes it. Dogs tend to become friendly faster than cats. The two will probably be buddies or at least tolerate each other in a week or so.

Mixing Cats & Dogs

Unlike Dueling cartoon cats and dogs, in reality cats and dogs usually co-exist peacefully. Occasionally they even become loyal comrades; Because there is normally a difference in size as well as species, cats and dogs sidestep dominance tensions. Still, match ups need to be carefully considered, particularly when you bring a dog into a cat's home.

You should consider the following factors when considering what is the best cat and dog "mix" for your home:

• Age: Age doesn't matter in most cases, unless the cat is more than four years old and not accustomed to dogs. Then it is best to get an older dog.

• Gender: The dog's gender is seldom a problem, but if you have an older male cat who has not been around dogs, you should get a female dog.

• Personality: Animal personalities are more important than age, gender or health. If your cat is extroverted, almost any dog will do, but a shy, quiet cat will welcome a boisterous dog about as much as the three little pigs embrace the wolf at their door. Also take into account what breed characteristics your dog has.

• Health: Health is not a major concern, since few diseases can be passed between cats and dogs. Still, it would be smart to have your veterinarian check the newcomer.

-My dog has destructive behavior, what should I do?

There are two major causes of destructive behaviour: boredom and separation anxiety. Separation anxiety is a term used to describe the insecure behaviour of a dog who is too dependent on his owner and thus becomes destructive in his owner's absence.
Separation anxiety is also common in dogs who have been abandoned or mistreated.

Too many dogs are given up for adoption because of destructive behaviour, usually without any effort by their owners to change or improve their pet's behaviour. Accepting the responsibility of owning a dog means being prepared to deal with such situations.

The suggestions listed below will help you and your dog get right back on the good behaviour "track":

• Have your dog spayed or neutered.
  
• Give your dog rigorous, tiring exercise before you leave your home. This will require more time and effort on your part, but it is necessary to help your dog.
  
• Make all home departures and arrivals uneventful. Avoid exciting your dog at these times.
• Most destructive behaviour occurs within the first and last half hours a dog is alone. This is due usually to anxiety brought on by the excitement that often surrounds this time.
• Plan a play session for your dog half an hour after you arrive home.
  
• Never reprimand unless you have caught your dog in the act of being destructive.
• Punishing your dog on your return for something done in your absence will serve only to increase its anxiety and confusion, and will hinder any progress you have already made.
  
• Purchase a crate for your dog to stay in while you are away from home or are unable to keep an eye on your dog (this is comparable to placing a toddler in a playpen). Line the crate with a blanket and provide a variety of safe and suitable chew toys for your dog.
• Never use the crate as a form of reprimand. Make the act of entering the crate enjoyable.
• This method is commonly referred to as "cage" or "crate training", and emulates a natural habit of dogs, which is to go into a den for a safe and secure place to rest. Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you can practice leaving him alone for short periods of time.
• Allow your dog access only to certain areas of the house and, as with children, make sure breakables and dangerous items are well out of reach (also keep in mind that your dog may just prefer to stay in its "den"). You may wish to read The Toronto Humane Society Fact Sheet "Crate Training" for more information.
• Before leaving, switch on a radio tuned to a soft music/talk station. The sound of soft human voices and music has a calming effect on dogs.
  
• Consult a veterinarian about your dog's diet. Foods that are too high in protein and/or lack other necessary nutrients may have an effect on your dog's behaviour.
  
• Make use of the experience of others. Many excellent books are available.
  
• Most behavioural problems can be solved with the right amount of love, time and patience. Don't give up! The love and devotion your dog has for you will make it all worthwhile.

- Our family is expecting a baby, how will this affect our pet? And what preperations should we make?

You're expecting a baby. Congratulations! Everyone is excited, and you have told your family and friends, but have you told your dog? Yes, your dog needs to know that you will be bringing a baby into the house.

Many people are so wrapped up in the new baby that they forget the other family member: the family dog. If you have other children, you would explain that they would soon have a baby brother or sister, that things would be changing a little bit and what the changes would be. You would help them understand that they are still loved and that the new baby will be an addition to the family, not a replacement. Your dog deserves the same consideration.

How do you tell your dog that you are going to have a baby?

Set up the nursery early - about three months before the baby is due.
Place a toy doll and blanket in the crib or playpen.
Establish the new routine you and your baby will have and carry the doll around the house with you.

Go to the library and borrow a sound effects recording with the sound of a crying baby on it.
All of these things will help your dog understand what will be happening when the baby comes home.

If you haven't already done obedience training with your dog, now is the time! If your dog jumps on you and your friends, he will do the same thing with the baby, so put a stop to it now. Let him know this is no longer acceptable. If your dog begins to jump up, tell him "No! Sit!" and give him lots of praise.

Your dog will be curious, and although he does not want to hurt the baby, this may happen. It is up to you to educate your dog. If at all possible, expose your dog to young children and make it a pleasurable experience. Remember to praise him!

It is essential that you supervise your baby and your dog. Infants and young children make unfamiliar noises - often very high-pitched - that can cause stress to your dog's ears or may sound like his beloved squeaky toy. Babies also move awkwardly and may fall on your dog. As your baby begins to walk, he or she may try to pull him or herself up by pulling on your dog's hair, or may lose his or her balance and grab a handful of your dog's coat.

Here are a few suggestions to help you prepare Bowser for your baby's arrival:

Start referring to your dog as "Good Dog" rather than "Good Boy" or "Good Girl". You will probably want to use the latter words with your child, and it would be confusing for your dog if you used the same words for him.

To help your dog get to know the baby, bring home one of the baby's blankets from the hospital and let him become used to the baby's scent.

Once the baby has arrived:

Make sure your dog receives positive attention when the baby is awake and with you. He will learn that nice things happen when the baby is up.

Encourage your dog to gently smell the baby in your arms. You can begin this training early with a doll.
Teach your dog a new command: "Gentle!" Work with your dog, teaching him to accept gentle squeezing and pulling of paws, ears and hair. Reward him with praise and a treat.

Never, ever leave your child (especially one under the age of five) and your dog unsupervised. If you must leave the room, have one or both accompany you, or place the child in the playpen.

Teach your child not to bother the dog when he is sleeping.

Do not allow your child to tug on, kick, hit or tease your dog.

Teach your child how to approach and greet an unfamiliar dog, and how to avoid one.

Never let your dog play with your child's toys, or your child play with your dog's toys. If your dog has an inappropriate toy, ask it to drop it and provide him with a suitable replacement.

For further information, call The Toronto Humane Society at 416- 392-2273 and dial "0".

Or pick up a book dealing with children and dogs (Recommended reading: Child-Proofing Your Dog - A complete guide to preparing your dog for the children in your life, by Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson, Warner Books, 1994).

New Shelter adoption hours are: Now Open for Adoptions, Seven Days a Week, 12pm to 6 pm