How to - Small domestics
Please click below for information on caring for your new small domestic animal:
Rats & Mice
Rats and mice are social creatures and happier in groups than alone.
Avoid mixing males and females: rodents breed very quickly, and
it is difficult to find homes for the young. When selecting your
new pet, choose a rat or mouse that is lively and alert, with a
thick, shiny coat.
Try to play with a rat or mouse before you buy one, just to make
sure you will not have to find another home for it because you have
an allergic reaction to it (people are frequently bothered by these
small mammals).
For their small size, rats and mice need a lot of exercise. Each
one requires at least 2'x1'x1' of space, and a two-storey cage with
a ladder between floors is most enjoyable for them. Glass or plastic
housing is usually best, or a metal cage with a removable tray-bottom
for easy cleaning. Make sure the cage is away from drafts and direct
sunlight. Rats and mice prefer a segregated sleeping area, so build
a 5"x 5" box for them, or simply add a pint-size glass
jar placed on its side.
Give them lots of bedding. You will find they use one corner of
the cage as a bathroom. Since rats and mice urinate frequently,
you should pile the shavings or sawdust especially high in this
area. Give them plenty of clean straw or hay so they can make comfortable
nests.
You should change the bedding every few days, and completely wash
and disinfect the cage once a week. While you are cleaning the cage,
move the rats or mice into a large box in which you have placed
tree branches. Your pets will enjoy a good play session, and be
out of your way.
Contrary to popular opinion, cheese is not good for mice. Neither
is meat. Rats and mice do very well on a diet of rodent chow or
pellets, with occasional treats of fresh fruits and vegetables.
Unless you notice your pets are getting particularly fat, feed them
as much chow as they want. Rats and mice should always have plenty
of fresh water available at all times. You should also make sure
they have some wood - either a piece of hardwood or some twigs -
to gnaw on.
To remain tame, rats and mice need frequent and gentle handling.
Never pick up a small rodent by the tip of its tail - you might
skin him. Hold it by the base of the tail and slip your other hand
under its hindquarters. Always treat your pet gently and patiently.
If your pet seems to panic when you first lift it, hold it by the
base of the tail until it calms down. When handling your rat or
mouse, never make any sudden downward motion - this will give it
a bad fright.
Rats and mice are inquisitive, active creatures. Make sure they
have an interesting and varied environment, and give them lots of
toys. They are especially fond of exercise wheels, ladders and branches
to climb. A small rodent needs these additions to the cage to be
a happy and healthy pet.
Rabbits
BRINGING BUGSY HOME: Your New Pet Rabbit
It is important that your new rabbit's
quarters be ready when you bring him home. Be sure your rabbit
has fresh food,
water and litter, and a comfortable surface on which to stretch
out. Several layers of newsprint, changed daily, work fine.
Carpeting,
towels or rags should not be used, as rabbits will chew on them
and may experience serious intestinal damage.
As soon as you and your bunny arrive home from the shelter, gently
place him in the cage you have prepared and then leave your bunny
alone. Your new companion needs time to rest and familiarize itself
with his new surroundings. Let your bunny spend a full two to
three
days alone to establish a new territory. Keep your new pet well-supplied
with fresh food and water and if he is using a litter pan, clean
it periodically. Spend time in quiet activities nearby and speak
gently to your rabbit, letting him get to know the sound of your
voice.
A gradual approach will ease the introduction of a rabbit into
a home with established pets. Some animals are more possessive
of
their territory than others. Consider your existing pet's temperament
before deciding to adopt a new bunny. Any introduction should
be
done gradually, starting with your rabbit safely in the cage and
progressing as your established pet appears to accept the newcomer.
Always watch your pets very carefully for any sign of hostility,
and be sure your rabbit can retreat to the security of the cage
if he feels threatened. Be sure to spend a lot of time with your
existing companion animal to minimize any problem with jealousy.
Litter Training
By nature, rabbits are fastidious animals; they are also creatures
of habits. Both traits are helpful in training them to use a litter
box.
The cage you select for your rabbit should provide enough room
to accommodate a litter box, or at least give your rabbit a bathroom
corner not too near its preferred sleeping spot. A 2'x 3' cage
is a good starting point. You will usually find that once he has
established
a toilet area, he will continue to use it as long as it is cleaned
regularly.
When establishing the ground rules for your bunny's training,
do not rush or expect too much immediately. Once your bunny has
had
several days to get used to the cage, allow him the freedom of
one room. If at all possible, put a litter box outside your bunny's
cage. You may find that he is more comfortable with this arrangement
and will wait until he is released from the cage to do its "business".
If your bunny starts soiling your floors, pick it up gently and
firmly say "No!". Then place him in the litter box. Putting
some of your bunny's stool in the litter may also help. If your
bunny uses the box, do not hesitate to praise it. Never, under
any circumstances resort to any discipline harder than a firm "No!"
and, when necessary, putting him back in the cage.
Chewing
Perhaps one of the hardest behaviours to deal with is a rabbit's
natural tendency to chew. This is a very natural behaviour. Because
a rabbit's teeth continue to grow throughout his life, it is essential
that your rabbit have a good supply of materials on which to wear
them down. By keeping your rabbit well-supplied with hay, you will
help to minimize unacceptable chewing on other household items.
It is a good idea to have a few small branches or a block of wood
for it to chew, but make sure any wood you use is untreated and
contains no pesticide residue.
On occasion, your rabbit will still choose to nibble on the chairs
or baseboard instead of his chew sticks. Again, say "No!"
in a firm, not loud, voice. If your rabbit persists, pick it up
while saying the "No!" command and place him gently
in the cage. Eventually, your rabbit should get the message.
It is surprising and very sad how often a rabbit who has been
brought to the shelter turns out to be a wonderfully bright, responsible
animal. Usually all that is needed is consistent, gentle handling
and a measure of compassion. The time spent with your bunny, getting
to know him on his own terms and appreciate your bunny's own unique
personality, will pay off in a more contented, rewarding companion.
Accommodation
There are several books available on rabbit care, that give you
an idea of the options available for housing your rabbit. Important
considerations are size and location, security and ease of cleaning.
The cage should, of course, be made of sturdy, non-toxic materials.
When selecting accommodation for your rabbit, be careful not to
purchase a cage that he will quicky outgrow. So-called "starter"
cages may look roomy enough to hold a small bunny, but remember,
that a small bunny may grow to be a good-sized adult. Even if
the
rabbit you adopt is a dwarf breed, you should remember that he
will spend much of his time in the cage. The roomier the cage,
the happier
your rabbit will be.
Make sure the cage is not placed in direct sunlight or in an area
prone to drafts. He should be situated in a relatively quiet area,
away from noisy televisions and stereos but still within the sphere
of family activities - not in the garage or in an unfinished basement
that the family rarely visits. Only in this way can you hope to
establish a bond with your new pet.
Exercise
A clean, roomy cage is a good start, but it is no substitute for
adequate exercise and stimulation. Think of it from your bunny's
point of view. Life in a cage must be pretty boring. Therefore,
you should be prepared to spend some time every day, supervising
your rabbit as he explores the world around it. Bunnies do not
always know what is and is not good for them, and you may find
a nibble
out of a chair leg or an electrical cord if you do not supervise
his walkabouts. Make sure all wires are tacked or raised out of
reach of your new bunny and never let your bunny chew any electrical
wire, as he could be electrocuted with only one little nip.
Use the time your rabbit spends out of the cage to get to know
him. The best way to do this is by getting down to your rabbit's
level and letting it get to know you. Rabbits are very inquisitive
and will usually hop over to check out anything you do at floor
level. If you have a good book to read, why not do so stretched
out on the floor? Talk softly to your bunny and, if he seems to
want attention, gently stroke his forehead and ears. Your rabbit
may hop away at first, but if you are patient and do not force
the
issue, your rabbit will soon learn to trust you and welcome this
time together.
Keep in mind that most rabbits, while they enjoy this kind of
attention, do not like being picked up and carried around. Rabbits
have an
instinctive fear of falling and are not really comfortable unless
they have all four feet on solid ground. It is especially important
for children to understand this.
When you do pick up your rabbit, be careful to make him feel secure.
Different rabbits require different approaches and you will soon
learn how best to handle your bunny. It is important, however,
to fully support your rabbit's hindquarters and steady him as
he is
lifted. Never pick up your rabbit by the ears, or allow your child
to do this, as it causes intense pain to the bunny.
Nutrition
The following information is offered only as a guide. For questions
about diet or any other aspect of your rabbit's care, consult a
veterinarian who is knowledgeable about rabbits. There are also
many comprehensive books on rabbit care that address the issue of
proper nutrition. Be sure that any books you follow are fair. Our understanding of rabbits' needs have evolved, so older
books may be unreliable.
It is very important that your rabbit receive most of his nourishment
in the form of good-quality rabbit pellets, which are available
at most pet stores. They should look and smell fresh, not musty
and should be bought in relatively small quantities to ensure they
do not become stale and lose their nutritive value. Meal times
should be scheduled at about the same time each day and fresh
pellets
used for each feeding.
Another important element in your rabbit's feeding is hay, which
provides roughage and helps to prevent the development of gastric
hair balls, a serious health problem. Alfalfa hay or Timothy hay
is usually sold with other small-animal supplies at pet supply stores.
Like the pellets, the hay should be as fresh as possible.
Fruits and vegetables should be fed only in small quantities: no
more than about five per cent of your pet's daily food intake. Some
appropriate choices are carrots, broccoli, parsley, alfalfa sprouts,
apples and bananas. Contrary to popular belief, lettuce and cabbage
are not good choices, as they can lead to intestinal upsets. Be
sure that the food is fresh and remove any uneaten greens promptly
from the cage. Green foods should not be given to rabbits under
the age of six months, and they should be introduced very gradually
into the diet as the rabbit matures. You should avoid any sudden
changes in your rabbit's diet at any age.
It is essential that your rabbit have access to fresh, clean drinking
water at all times. If you use a water bottle with a sipper tube
be sure that you rinse it daily and scrub it frequently with a bottle
brush to keep it clean. Also, be sure that it is correctly positioned
on the cage, otherwise, it will not dispense water properly.
Hamsters
Acquire
your new pet when he is about six weeks of age. It is easy to tell
when a hamster is young; the hairs inside his ears are white. Hamsters
usually live to be two to three years old.
When choosing a cage for your hamster, make sure it is made of
a non-destructible material. Hamsters are real escape artists, and
they can fit through a hole smaller than a quarter. The cage for
a single hamster should be at least 2'x1'x1'. Provide lots of bedding
(shavings, peanut shells or straw) and a separate nesting box for
sleeping. A gallon-size jar on its side makes a very comfortable
hamster bed in which your pet can make a nest. A movable metal-tray
floor makes the cage very easy to clean. You should completely wash
the cage once a week.
Hamsters are very sensitive to temperature extremes and to dampness,
and must be kept in a warm dry place away from direct sunlight.
The best temperature is between 12 C and 21 C. They will hibernate
at temperatures below 9 C, and suffer from heat prostration if it
gets any warmer than 27 C.
Hamsters have rather peculiar eating habits. Since they are nocturnal,
it is best to feed them in the evening. A good diet begins with
hamster food or rabbit pellets mixed with unsalted sunflower seeds
and crushed dog biscuits, or a mixture of cereal grains and rabbit
feed. Hamsters are hoarders; they like to fill their cheek pouches
with food and bury it somewhere else in the cage. Make sure you
do not feed them sharp-edged food! They prefer food in small pieces.
Hamsters do well to have fresh fruits and vegetables as a variety;
this is especially important if their staple diet is rabbit feed.
Every month or two, add a few drops of cod liver oil, an excellent
vitamin supplement. Give them fresh twigs or a hardwood block to
gnaw on. Make sure they always have plenty of fresh water.
Hamsters are quite shy and must be gently trained to accept handling.
They are easily startled. Remember that hamsters are quite short-sighted,
so talk softly to your pet before and while you pick him up. Grasp
your hamster gently and firmly around his whole body from above
with one hand and slip your other hand under him for support. If
you are nervous about being bitten, use gloves at first, but not
leather gloves, which do not transmit your scent. All you will
be doing is accustoming your pet to the scent of leather. Pick
your
hamster up daily, give him a short cuddle then put him back in
the cage. Give your hamster a food treat, such as a piece of apple
and leave it alone until the next day. With patience and frequent,
and gentle handling, you will soon have a very friendly hamster.
A word of warning: if your hamster closes his eyes and scrunches
up his face, he is getting ready to bite. Say "No!" in
a loud, deep voice, and he will stop.
Hamsters like toys and they can keep themselves amused for hours.
Anything they can climb on, such as a branch, a sloping board
or
a ladder, is fun for them. An exercise wheel is important.
At the first sign of sniffles, take your hamster to the veterinarian.
Hamsters develop pneumonia easily but this should not happen if
you have been careful to keep your pet's cage in a warm, dry place.
Acquire
your new pet when he is about six weeks of age. It is easy to tell
when a hamster is young; the hairs inside his ears are white. Hamsters
usually live to be two to three years old.
When choosing a cage for your hamster, make sure it is made of
a non-destructible material. Hamsters are real escape artists, and
they can fit through a hole smaller than a quarter. The cage for
a single hamster should be at least 2'x1'x1'. Provide lots of bedding
(shavings, peanut shells or straw) and a separate nesting box for
sleeping. A gallon-size jar on its side makes a very comfortable
hamster bed in which your pet can make a nest. A movable metal-tray
floor makes the cage very easy to clean. You should completely wash
the cage once a week.
Hamsters are very sensitive to temperature extremes and to dampness,
and must be kept in a warm dry place away from direct sunlight.
The best temperature is between 12 C and 21 C. They will hibernate
at temperatures below 9 C, and suffer from heat prostration if it
gets any warmer than 27 C.
Hamsters have rather peculiar eating habits. Since they are nocturnal,
it is best to feed them in the evening. A good diet begins with
hamster food or rabbit pellets mixed with unsalted sunflower seeds
and crushed dog biscuits, or a mixture of cereal grains and rabbit
feed. Hamsters are hoarders; they like to fill their cheek pouches
with food and bury it somewhere else in the cage. Make sure you
do not feed them sharp-edged food! They prefer food in small pieces.
Hamsters do well to have fresh fruits and vegetables as a variety;
this is especially important if their staple diet is rabbit feed.
Every month or two, add a few drops of cod liver oil, an excellent
vitamin supplement. Give them fresh twigs or a hardwood block to
gnaw on. Make sure they always have plenty of fresh water.
Hamsters are quite shy and must be gently trained to accept handling.
They are easily startled. Remember that hamsters are quite short-sighted,
so talk softly to your pet before and while you pick him up. Grasp
your hamster gently and firmly around his whole body from above
with one hand and slip your other hand under him for support. If
you are nervous about being bitten, use gloves at first, but not
leather gloves, which do not transmit your scent. All you will
be doing is accustoming your pet to the scent of leather. Pick
your
hamster up daily, give him a short cuddle then put him back in
the cage. Give your hamster a food treat, such as a piece of apple
and leave it alone until the next day. With patience and frequent,
and gentle handling, you will soon have a very friendly hamster.
A word of warning: if your hamster closes his eyes and scrunches
up his face, he is getting ready to bite. Say "No!" in
a loud, deep voice, and he will stop.
Hamsters like toys and they can keep themselves amused for hours.
Anything they can climb on, such as a branch, a sloping board
or
a ladder, is fun for them. An exercise wheel is important.
At the first sign of sniffles, take your hamster to the veterinarian.
Hamsters develop pneumonia easily but this should not happen if
you have been careful to keep your pet's cage in a warm, dry place.
Guinea pigs
Guinea pigs (cavies) are wonderful pets and very easy to care for.
They can be nervous but soon grow accustomed to people. These rodents
are active in the daytime and can keep themselves busy without
companionship, unlike gerbils.
It is best to get a guinea pig when he is over six weeks of age.
The average life span of a guinea pig or cavy is three years.
Your guinea pig will be happy in his own cage but should be taken
out for exercise regularly. Guinea pigs are sensitive to draft and
dampness, so be selective about where you place the cage. Your pet's
home should be at least 2'x3'x1.5' and have a solid floor. Cover
the floor of the cage with pine shavings or corn cob litter as bedding.
A metal cage with a slide-out tray is easiest to clean.
Guinea pigs are vegetarians. Laboratory chow or a mixture of four
parts crushed oats to one part brand is an excellent staple food.
The guinea pig is the only mammal besides man who cannot produce
its own vitamin C, so feed your guinea pig fresh greens daily. Avoid
lettuce, though; it can cause kidney problems. Put a salt spool
in his cage for him to gnaw at will. Hardwood block are good for
your guinea pig's teeth. As a treat, occasionally give your guinea
pig brewer's yeast, bread and/or milk.
Like all animals, guinea pigs should always have fresh water available.
A gravity-fed water tube is best but check it daily to make sure
your pet has not plugged it up with food or bedding.
Be gentle when lifting your guinea pig. Grasp him firmly - do not
squeeze! - around his body just behind the forelegs, slip your other
hand under his hindquarters for support and lift. Talk to your guinea
pig softly while doing this. If you find that he is nervous, train
him to come to your hand with a bit of apple or carrot. Your guinea
pig will soon learn to associate you with good things!
Guinea pigs are usually healthy and hardy, but if they do get sick,
it is serious. A mild case of diarrhea can be corrected by removing
greens from your pet's cage. For slight constipation, feed your
guinea pig more greens. If symptoms are more serious, or if they
persist, take your guinea pig to the veterinarian
Gerbils
Gerbils are delightful and affectionate pets. They seldom bite.
If you keep one gerbil, you must
remember that he will become very dependent on you
for affection and companionship; if you do not feel you will be
able to give him as much as he would like, keep a pair of the same
sex (females tend to get along better together than males).
These desert rodents are very inquisitive animals and they require
an interesting and varied environment to keep them happy. Gerbils
like toys - lots of them! Exercise wheels can keep them amused for
hours. Give them something new every few weeks and they will have
a great time investigating.
The best time to acquire a gerbil is when they are about six weeks
old. The one you choose should have plump body, bright eyes, thick
fur and lots of energy.
These affectionate animals are most active during the day. They
are notorious escape artists and adept jumpers. Gerbils require
good solid cages (about 2'x2'x1') with wire mesh covers. A dry aquarium
with a hardware cloth cover is ideal. Gerbils are naturally burrowing
animals, so give them a nice thick bedding of pine shavings. Avoid
newspapers - the ink can be toxic for these little creatures. You
only need to wash the cage out completely every one to two weeks,
since gerbils excrete very little urine, but change the bedding
weekly. These animals are very good at keeping themselves clean;
you need never give your gerbil a bath.
Gerbils prefer a dry environment. While they can tolerate a wide
range of temperatures, they are uncomfortable at temperatures less
than 7 C or greater than 30 C.
Gerbils' favourite food is unsalted sunflower seeds but alone,
they do not constitute a complete diet. Feed these seeds in combination
with kibble dog food or commercial gerbil food and you will have
a healthy gerbil. These animals are not particularly prone to obesity,
so feed them as much as they want. Fresh seeding grasses are a good
addition to their diet. Fresh fruits and vegetables are not only
unnecessary, they can be detrimental. Peanuts or potato chips are
nice occasional treats. Gerbils require wood and/or cardboard
on which to chew (paper towel tubes double as fun toys). Although
they do not drink very much, fresh water should always be available.
Automatic cage-hung water tubes are best.
Generally speaking, gerbils enjoy being handled. Do not pick
up your gerbil by the end of his tail - you might skin it. Grasp
your gerbil by the base of the tail and slide your other hand under
him, then release the tail and cup your hands together. It helps
if you talk to your gerbil while you are cuddling him.
If you take good care of your gerbil, you should have a healthy
pet for three to four years. In the wild, gerbils are not known
to suffer from any disease but they can become ill in captivity.
If your gerbil is lethargic, huddles in a corner or has a rough-looking
coat or sores, take your gerbil to the veterinarian.
Ferrets
Fun, Fast
& Fascinating
Ferrets have been domesticated for more than 2,000
years, and were originally used to hunt rabbits. Although descended
from wild European polecats, they are not able to cope in the wild
and should be classed as domestic, rather than wild animals.
Male ferrets are called "hobs", females
are "jills" and the babies are known as" kits".
Behaviour
Most ferrets are quite tame and do not bite unless provoked, although
some may become a bit excited and nip when playing, much as kittens
do. A little training usually deters them from this habit. Male
ferrets may be a bit more aggressive than females. It is unusual
to find a bad-tempered or vicious ferret, but occasionally one may
turn up. Ferrets are very social animals and love to play with toys,
people and other pets. They should not be left unattended with babies,
though accidents can happen and a child can be bitten (usually
due to lack of parental supervision). Ferrets should not be placed
in compromising situations, where they have to defend themselves
by irresponsible owners.
Ferrets are very inquisitive, playful little creatures who enjoy
roaming around and investigating their environment. When their owners
are away, they can be kept in a cage, which should measure 3'x2'x18".
They should be let out to play when their owners come home. Ferrets
also love ferret condo-style cages, which have two levels for climbing.
Playing is an important part of their lives.
Ferrets like to sleep under a towel or blanket, and should be given
a little area or box all their own for sleeping. Ferrets sleep an average of 14 hours each day since they are so active during waking hours.
Ferrets can be trained to use a litter box. Often they will select
a corner of a room. Back into it and use it as a toilet. Place the
litter box there.
Ferrets love to chew things and will often swallow foreign objects
that can block their intestinal tracts. Keep them away from rubber
and spongy items. Hair or string may also block their stomachs.
Ferrets do not vomit, as cats do. They should be given hairball
laxative for cats regularly, twice a week.
They are amazing escape artists. Ferret-proofing your home is essential
to prevent losing your pet in heating vents, walls or even through
mail slots.
Life Span
Ferrets have a life span of five to 11 years although the average is usually five to seven years.
Veterinary Care
Ferrets should be examined at least twice a year by a veterinarian
knowledgeable in their care.
Their geriatric problems begin at three to fours years of age
and they need regular testing starting at that time. As they age,
ferrets become susceptible to more disease problems, such as tumors
and hormonal imbalances. Some of these hormonal problems are caused
by tumors.
Ferrets are susceptible to canine (dog) distemper and rabies and
require vaccination against these two diseases; they are not susceptible
to cat or any other dog diseases. Distemper vaccine is started when
they are around eight weeks of age; two injections are required,
two to four weeks apart. Rabies vaccine (killed vaccine only) is
given at around three to four months of age. Annual boosters are
required for both of these diseases.
Like dogs, ferrets are also natural hosts for canine heartworm
(Diofilaria imitis). In areas where this parasite is a problem,
it is recommended that they be placed on a heartworm preventative
program. In mid-May each year, a blood test should be done, followed
by monthly medication until the end of November.
Ferrets are susceptible to the human influenza virus. If a family
member has the flu, do not allow him or her to handle the ferret.
Neutering is recommended: it will reduce the strong odor in ferret
urine and often makes male ferrets less aggressive. Females will
go into a prolonged heat, or estrus, cycle that lasts up to six
months. This prolonged heat cycle produces a high estrogen level
that may cause a hormonally induced anemia that can be fatal, therefore,
spaying is necessary.
Ferrets develop a lot of rusty brown wax in their ears and often
get ear mites. You should check their ears regularly and clean them
as needed.
Scent
Ferrets mature sexually when they reach nine to 12 months of age.
As they mature, male ferrets, like tom cats, develop a strong musky
odour to their urine. Both male and female ferrets have scent glands,
one on each side of the anus, that secrete a strong smelling fluid.
These scent glands can be surgically removed. Some odour will remain,
but it is not objectionable. The residual odour comes from their
skin glands. Ferrets can be washed as needed, using a mild commercial
ferret shampoo. It is not advisable to bathe them more that once
a month, however; to do so more frequently risks removing natural
skin oils they need.
Diet
It is best to feed commercial foods made specifically for ferrets.
This can be supplemented by high quality cat food (dry or canned).
If fed strictly a cat food diet some will gradually develop a fur
or skin problem.
When properly cared for, ferrets can be entertaining, loving and
fun pets and they will provide much enjoyment for their owners.
Remember, treat this little creature with the respect and care
that he deserves.
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