How to - Wildlife in the GTA

Many animals are well adapted to the city environment. Squirrels, raccoons, mice, rabbits, skunks, snakes, toads, numerous species of birds and many other animals share our parks, ravines, yards, lakefront and, sometimes, our homes. Although the acrobatics performed by a squirrel or raccoon can be amusing to watch, an uninvited animal in your attic can be noisy or destructive. It is important to remember that there is a good reason why animals locate where they do. They do not take up residence in your home to annoy you.

Wildlife is found wherever food and shelter are available to support them. Some species of garden flowers and vegetables will attract the unwanted attention of squirrels, woodchucks or other animals. Some species find food in your garbage cans and shelter in your home. The best way to prevent such problems is to secure your garbage cans and your home to make them inaccessible to wildlife.

Wild animals do not intentionally set out to frustrate you. They are just trying to survive. When we come into conflict with wild animals, we should implement humane solutions to any problems that may arise.

Preventive Measures to Protect Your Property

Wildlife species can only enter your home if they are given an opening. Take preventive measures to protect your property before you find yourself sharing your home against your wishes.

• Ensure that garbage containers are equipped with secure, tight-fitting lids. If this is not possible, you could try hooking a bungie cord (sold in hardware stores) over the cover, from one side of the can to the other, to secure the lid. If you cannot pull the cover away barehanded, you will have defeated any efforts made by raccoons or smaller mammals to gain entry. Even better, keep refuse cans in a closed garbage box to prevent tipping of containers. As well, some stores sell raccoon-proof garbage cans.
  
• Do not put your garbage out the night before pick-up, but rather on the morning it is to be picked up.
  
• Trim back tree branches that are close to the house so that animals do not have easy access.
  
• Check porches, attics, sheds and garages for holes or weak areas and securely seal them off with appropriate building materials or with galvanized sheet metal. The best time to do this is in late fall, after young have left nest sites and before mammals have firmly established winter dens.
  
• Cap or cover open chimneys with securely fastened wire netting or chimney caps, available at hardware stores or from chimney-cleaning companies.
  
• Regularly check the roof and eaves, and block all holes using galvanized sheet metal, but make sure there are no animals living inside at the time. You could spread flour around the entry point and check the next morning for footprints that would indicate use.
• Remember, squirrels need an entrance hole only two inches in diameter, sparrows even less. Bats and mice can crawl through a quarter-inch wide crack, while wasps and bees may find even smaller openings.
  

Wildlife Removal

The limit or "carrying capacity" for a given area of space is determined partly by the amount of available food. When you remove an animal, another will fill the gap, once again utilizing the carrying capacity of that area. Removing individual animals is, at best, a temporary solution to a problem.

Wildlife is part of the environment, even in the city, and we must protect our homes against unwanted wildlife intrusions, just as we protect them from the weather. We can "wildlife-proof" our homes so that sharing the environment with wildlife can be a pleasurable experience.

If you have problems with wildlife, there are numerous methods that evacuate animals alive and unharmed. Poisoning and death traps are not only inhumane and often ineffective in preventing recurrence of the problem, but can be dangerous to pets and children, and may be illegal. A trapped or poisoned dead animal may also create other unpleasant problems for you and your environment.

Remember, it is far easier and more efficient to prevent animals from getting into your home in the first place than it is to get them out. Secure your home properly.

General Guidelines - Wildlife & Your Home

If you experience a problem with wildlife in your home, the first step is to observe the animals. How many are present? Is there a litter or brood? What is their daily routine? Where do they nest or sleep? Is there more than one opening? For mammals, close all but one point of entry. To determine which hole is being used as an entry/exit point, cover all holes with pieces of plastic or lightly stuff them with rags or balls of paper. If the stuffing is gone the next day, that hole may be an entry/exit point. Continuous bright lights or loud music from a transistor radio in the nesting area or den will sometimes drive mammals away, but this method should not be used in areas where there are dependent young animals. You may wish to use Ropel™ garbage protector, a safe small-mammal repellent. If the animals are persistent and refuse to leave on their own, as a last resort you may wish to employ baited live traps to capture them. A wide range of wildlife traps may be rented from municipal animal control agencies or professional wildlife removal companies listed in the Yellow Pages. While pest control companies may advocate live trapping and removal, apart from the potential of being inhumane, this method is an expensive "band-aid" solution that does not address the major problem. Never leave traps unattended and check them at least once every two hours. Animals in traps can easily hurt themselves or be terrorized by dogs or predators, and will die of thirst, starvation or exposure if not rescued in time. Insist that any animal removal agency you use attend to trapped animals promptly. Find out what the wildlife removal company will do with the trapped animals and do not use companies who destroy them. Do not use companies that give vague assurances or cannot convince you they are genuinely concerned for the animals' welfare. Make sure that animals with dependent young are not trapped.

If you have tried other methods without success and feel you must resort to live trapping, it is important that the animal be released in your backyard or nearby park or ravine. This is the area to which the animal will be best able to adjust. If you follow the suggestions for securing your home in this and other Toronto Humane Society Fact Sheets, you should not have recurring problems.

Remember, removing or killing an animal will not solve the problem, as another animal will only take its place.

Once you are absolutely sure that all animals have left, close the final point of entry. A sprinkling of flour at the entry point will allow you to examine traffic patterns and determine whether animal tracks are still visible, that only an exit pattern is apparent or merely that an animal has shown curiosity in the changed environment.

Information on Individual Species

Mice

Litters: Mice may have eight litters per year, with an average of four to seven mice per litter. Most young are born at any time from late winter to late fall.

Habits/Routine: Mice are usually nocturnal.

Problem/Solutions: Mice consume household food.

• Store all foods, especially cereal grains and grain products, in sealed glass or metal containers. Do not leave pet food out for long periods of time, especially overnight.
  
• Seal all holes.
  
• Use live traps humanely under certain circumstances, with caution.

Raccoons

Litters: Raccoons have one litter a year, from March to July, with an average of three to seven young per litter.

Habits/Routine: Raccoons are generally nocturnal: they are active from one hour before sunset to several hours after sunrise, and are usually dormant in winter. Any opening or soft surface will invite a raccoon to investigate with its dexterous paws and insatiable curiosity. Raccoons can also gain access to soffits and roofs via chimneys, television antennas/towers and garages.

Problems/Solutions: Raccoons may knock over garbage cans, spread garbage or intrude into houses.

Knocking Over Garbage Cans: Tight-fitting lids, rubber tie-downs (bungie cords) available in hardware stores, or heavy weights on lids can prevent tipping. Raccoon-proof garbage cans are available, and a shelter or box to contain garbage pails prevents access. Commercial and bulk garbage bins should always be closed, particularly at night, and should never be overfilled.

Nesting in Attic, Crawlspace, Porch or Chimney: See information on squirrels, below. Purchase a chimney cap, but ensure that the raccoons have vacated the premises before installing it. If a female is present with her young, let her raise them until they are weaned (at three months), and then they will vacate the den.

Digging Up New Sod: Drive long wire pins or wooden stakes into the sod to hold it down until it takes root, or spread a layer of cayenne pepper just under the sod.
If you would like more information about raccoons, request a copy of The Toronto Humane Society Fact Sheet "Raccoons And Your Home".

PIGEONS (ROCK DOVES)

Brood: Young are born from early spring through fall; a pigeon may have two or three broods a year. A clutch of one or two eggs requires 18 days to incubate. The young leave the nest between four and six weeks of age.

Habits/Routine: Pigeons need a flat surface to nest, and prefer a flat surface for roosting.

Problems/Solutions: Noise and excrement buildup associated with roosts and nesting colonies. Roosting (sleeping) on windowsills, balconies and other flat surfaces.

Slope windowsills.
At dusk, throw something lightweight, such as dirt or snow, to disturb the birds, or gently hose with water. Do this for two or three evenings, so that birds do not come back later. They will not return after it is fully dark. Cover evacuated area with mesh/bird netting. Install monofilament line three inches above the favourite roosting area(s). Do not provide grain or bread crumbs to garden birds if pigeons are likely to be a problem. Most apartment balconies can be completely pigeon-proofed by installing horizontal monofilament lines a few inches apart, from end to end. The lines are invisible from a short distance and do not interfere with use of the balcony. Fake owls, rubber snakes, toy fans, swinging aluminum pie-plates, and similar devices all work to discourage pigeons from using certain areas, but usually the birds soon become used to such things and return. If you do use such "scare" tactics, remember to move them around and continually alter the appearance of the area. If you would like more information, The Toronto Humane Society also has a fact sheet about pigeons.

Skunks

Litters: Skunks have one litter a year, with an average of six to eight young, born between early May and mid-August. A den may contain up to two dozen skunks of any combination of gender and age.

Habits/Routine: Generally, skunks are nocturnal and begin foraging at sunset. They hibernate in winter and are lethargic in the hot summer. They are terrestrial animals, poor climbers and discharge a highly offensive musk in self-defense.

Problems/Solutions: Skunks may dig in gardens or lawns, or under porches and foundations. They may spray their musk in self-defense.

Digging for Insects: Use a chain-link or chicken-wire mesh fence one metre above the ground, with 15 centimetres placed horizontally below the surface to prevent skunks from digging underneath the fence.

Nesting Under Porch or Shed: Bait live traps with fish or cat food, raw or cooked bacon, peanut butter or chicken parts. Spraying should not be a problem because skunks do not become alarmed when a box trap closes. Approach the trap slowly and cover with a blanket or similar cover so that the skunk cannot see out. If handled gently, the trap can be moved with little danger of spraying. Release the skunk in a nearby park or ravine. Seal the point of entry once all the skunks have left. If a female is present with her young, allow her to raise them to the weaning stage (six weeks of age).

Musk Spraying: Avoid getting too close to skunks. Should you or your pet be sprayed by a skunk, wash yourself or your companion animal with tomato juice. A good scrub with toothpaste is also effective - just lather it up as if it were soap - then follow with soap and water.

Snakes

Brood: Different species have different habits, but local snakes have live births of various numbers. Baby snakes are miniature versions of their parents and are immediately on their own.

Habits/Routine: Although snakes are seldom seen, some people suffer unreasonable fear of them. They are an asset to lawns and gardens, controlling rodents and insects. To regulate their body temperature, snakes move from sun to shade.

Problems/Solutions: Snakes sometimes appear where they are not wanted.

When a snake is found on a stoop, concrete patio or against a foundation, it is merely seeking a sun-warmed place. You can remove it easily by draping it over a broom handle or gently lifting it on to a shovel. You can pick up small snakes safely by hand - be gentle - and carry to a suitable release site. Transfer snakes over longer distances by putting them into pillow cases closed with a simple loop knot.

Shade surfaces where snakes bask in the sun but are unwanted.

Remove snakes from indoors and seal entry ways.

There are no poisonous snakes in the Toronto area. The timber rattlesnake is apparently extinct in the province, and the little massassauga rattlesnake is an endangered species that resides primarily in the Georgian Bay area.

Squirrels

Litters: Squirrels have one or two litters each year, with an average of three to five young per litter. Litters are born throughout the spring and early summer. Dependent babies are found as late as August.

Habits/Routine: Squirrels are up early, rest in the afternoon, retire at dusk and slow down in winter, but they do not hibernate. They gain access to roofs by climbing in nearby trees, power lines, trellises, TV antennas/towers or brick walls.

Problems/Solutions: Squirrels eat birdseed, intrude into houses and eat garden plants.

Consuming Bird Feed: On fruit trees or feeder poles, use an inverted cone of sheet metal at least 1.5 metres (4.5 feet) from the ground. Locate feeders in an open area away from trees and fences.

Nesting in Attic, Chimney or Crawlspace: Close all but one opening with steel mesh, sheet metal or a chimney cap. Loud music or a bright light may drive intruders out. Once you are sure all animals have left, immediately seal final point of entry. Trim back tree branches that overhang roofs. Collar tree trunks with sheet metal; collars should be wide to prevent animals from reaching up and over, or jumping over them.

Garden Plundering: In some areas where there are many squirrels (particularly where birdseed or other food is available), some bulbs and plants cannot be planted, just as some tropical plants or plants requiring certain soil types cannot be planted everywhere. There are people that report some success at discouraging squirrels by spraying smelly concoctions on their gardens. One such mixture consists of a quart of warm water, a ground onion, a teaspoon of cayenne pepper and a tablespoon of garlic powder. Spread a layer of cayenne pepper (buy it in bulk if you have a large garden) over the top of the bulbs. Then put down another layer of soil along with more cayenne pepper, and finally, top it off with one last layer of soil. Some gardeners report success with planting garlic cloves among the bulbs.

Woodchucks (Groundhogs)

Litters: One litter, consisting of one to nine young (usually four) a year. Weaned by late June or early July.

Habits/Routine: Woodchucks are usually diurnal. They dig burrows and hibernate through the winter.

Problems/Solutions: Woodchucks dig burrows and eat garden vegetables. If the methods suggested above for protecting gardens against squirrels fail to work for woodchucks, relocation is probably the best solution to the problem. Woodchucks in urban areas are far less mobile than grey squirrels (as there is much less suitable habitat for them) and somewhat less likely to "fill in" gaps left by removal of individual animals.

Protect your garden with a fence of two-inch mesh chicken-wire, two to three feet above ground. Leave the bottom edge on the ground, at a right angle, back from the upright part of the fence. A woodchuck does not know enough to back away to burrow under. The top part of the fence should be very loose so that it swings backward when a woodchuck climbs it.

Cut down brush, woods and long grass to reduce the amount of cover for animals and the sense of security such cover provides. Live trap woodchucks by placing a trap baited with apples, carrots and lettuce outside the burrow entrance. If you must relocate woodchucks, wait until early July, when the young are independent. Relocate the animals to a suitable environment, such as an unused overgrown field, abandoned railway right-of-way or abandoned orchard, away from active farms. Relocation should be a last resort. Proper fencing will protect your garden.

Wildlife , Rabies and Other Diseases

Rabies

What is rabies?
Rabies is a virus disease found in warm-blooded animals that affects the nervous system and then travels to the brain. Eventually, the animal dies.

How can I get rabies?
Rabies is usually contracted from the bite of an infected animal, but may occur if the animal's saliva enters an open cut or would or, in exceptionally rare instance, comes in contact with mucous membranes. Most rabies occurs in wildlife; foxes and skunks are the main carriers in Ontario.

How do I recognize a rabid animal?
The disease can take different forms, including "furious" and "dumb' rabies, or a combination of both. A friendly animal may become snappy, a shy animal unusually friendly, a wild animal abnormally tame. In the later stage, the animal may show signs of unusual restlessness and excitability, and may run aimlessly and exhibit a puzzled look,. The infected animal will develop gradual paralysis, particularly noticeable in the throat (causing the animal to drool profusely due to its inability to swallow) and in the hind legs. The animal's fur may be matted, its behaviour odd. Dumb rabies elicits less noticeable signs of aggressiveness, but invades the nervous system faster. An animal may show any of these symptoms and not be rabid. But it is not safe to take chances. In the final stages, the animal rapidly loses weight, becomes completely paralyzed and dies.

How can rabies be prevented?
There is a period of several days after initial contact when there is still time to be vaccinated against rabies, but the action must be taken quickly. Rabies cannot be cured in animals or people once the infection has taken hold, but it can be prevented in the following ways:

• Have a veterinarian vaccinate your pets once a year.
  
• Keep your pet on a leash when outdoors.
  
• Teach you children about rabies and teach them to say away from "friendly" wild animals.
  
• Report any animal you suspect of having rabies to your local veterinarian, the rabies unit of the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources or your local public heath office.
  
• Any animal bite that breaks the skin should be cleaned and disinfected immediately and, must by law, be reported immediately to your local department of health office. Rabies can be prevented after first contact, but once the disease takes hold, death is inevitable.

Other Diseases

While animals can transmit other diseases that can cause illness or even death to humane beings, it is important to remember that only one species carries every disease that is dangerous to humans, and that is man. Transmission of disease from animals to humans is rare, and with normal attention to hygiene, you are far safer from disease in the company of animals than in the company of people. Be careful, use common sense, but do not be unreasonably fearful.

Remember, preventive measures and regular inspection of your home will likely eliminate any problems with wildlife.

Animals are as much a part of our environment as the weather. As we protect our homes against the less desirable effects of the weather, so should we protect our homes against the less desirable effects of wildlife. But it should be done with compassion.

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