Congratulations! You now have a new canine best firend who is guaranteed to not only be a loyal friend, but also to occupy a fair amount of your time and energy!. To help make the adjustment to your home easier for your new pup, please carefully read the following info to insure you are ready to care for your new doggie friend as well as possible. Below you will find information on training, walking, barking, safety tips, and many more tips and tricks to make the transition of bringing your new best firend home with you as smooth as possible. Click the links below for dog care information: House training your new dog Obedience training Walking Crate training Backyard dogs Barking Dogs and heat

Housetraining Your New Dog

A puppy is a baby, and not yet house trained. He will relieve himself anywhere, anytime. Because a newly adopted adult dog is unfamiliar with your home, he may not understand where he should "go"! Housetraining, or teaching your dog to go outside to relieve himself, is an important lesson your dog must learn.
It is up to you, the new parent, to housetrain your new puppy or dog with patience, love and understanding.

CRATE TRAINING
In the wild, wolves live in a den or cave. It is important the entire wolf pack keep this area clean. The same idea works with your family pet. Your dog’s crate is his home, his bedroom. It is likely that your dog will not like to soil his bed. Therefore, he will wait until he is let out to do his business.

HOUSETRAINING WITH YOUR CRATE
On average, puppies can hold their bladders one hour for every month they have been alive, plus one hour. For example, if you have a three month old puppy, he can wait 3 + 1 = 4 hours. If you work longer than this, the best solution is to have someone (a neighbour, a relative, a dog walker) come in at an appropriate time to let your dog out.

100 PER CENT SUPERVISION
Supervision is the key to housetraining! While you are at home, your dog must be supervised. Whether you are watching television, making dinner, on the phone or on the computer, your puppy must be watched. While it sounds like an impossible task, it isn’t. Keeping the crate in a social part of the house makes it easier. Using a house lead – a small, thin lead with a little clip on it – also helps immensely. Outside, you put a lead on your dog so you can control him. If the lead is removed after returning home, control is lost. For example, when watching television, have the lead tied to a couch leg. Your dog can have his blanket and toys with him. He’ll feel safe and comfortable. The majority of accidents happen when your pup wanders off and you haven’t noticed. You don’t want him to sneak off into the kitchen and find a puddle a short time later. If your pup is kept from wandering, the possibility of an accident is diminished because he will not eliminate where he is sitting. 100 per cent supervision means ensuring your dog is playing with you, in his crate, outside or on his house lead.

SCHEDULING
In the morning, take your dog outside. He should urinate and possibly have a bowel movement. Spend about five to seven minutes with him and then bring him in. Do not play with him yet. Feed him breakfast, either in the crate or with the lead, and supervise it. If your pup did not have a bowel movement earlier, take him back outside about 15 minutes after he has eaten. Use the lead to keep your pup moving along while outside. Otherwise, he may start sniffing, stopping and playing to avoid the job at hand. You can say “hurry up” and your dog will begin to associate these words with the task at hand. Praise him excessively when he has eliminated. Bring him back in the house and place him in his crate if you are going to work. Continue to supervise him with the crate or the lead if you are home. When returning after being out, go directly to the crate, let him out, praise him and put him back in. Feed him his meal, take him outside 15 minutes after he has eaten, praise him after he eliminates, and bring him back in. Continue to follow the same steps consistently.

While you are home, you should take your pup outside on a regular basis. Even if your pup is in a crate or on a house lead, he still needs the opportunity to eliminate. Also, be careful what you wish for! A pup who barks to go outside may be cute and clever now. However, you must try not to fall into the habit of leaping up every time your dog wants in or out. It is a very submissive gesture on your part. Have your pup wait a moment or two.

Setting up a schedule is also a good idea. If your pup is under four months of age, take him out for five minutes every hour on the hour. If your pup is over four months old, take him out every second hour on the hour. The schedule will help you remember when to take him out. Go out for five minutes only. It provides the opportunity to eliminate even if your pup may not need to go. Take your dog out after active play and also after napping. If an accident occurs, you may have forgotten to take him out .

FEEDING TIME
Having a puppy drink a lot of water and then placing him in his crate is much more unkind than letting him be a bit thirsty for an hour or two. Adult dogs should have access to drinking water at all times. However, this is not the case for untrained pups. Most parents will not allow their children to drink a big glass of water before going to bed. Avoid setting your pup up for failure. Restrict his water intake to three or four drinks daily and make sure you remove the water dish about three hours before bedtime. This will help your dog sleep more comfortably.

If it is a hot evening, supply your pup with a few ice cubes. They will enter your dog’s system at a slower pace. When feeding your pup, provide a high-quality food that is a good source of protein. The food must be concentrated so your puppy’s body doesn’t require much of it. If you feed less, your puppy eliminates less. Food is directly related to how well puppies do in their housetraining.

EXERCISE
It is important that your pup gets a lot of exercise, especially while crate training. You can play fetch, chase or hide and seek in your home. You can call ‘come’ at the same time to provide further training. Anyway you do it, your pup needs to be able to run and play.

Obedience Training

You may need to train your new canine companion with the help of a professional trainer. Training will help you establish a trusting and loving relationship with your new pet and will teach you and your dog how to behave, how to react and what is expected from each other.

Walking

Is your home or fenced yard a haven or a prison for your dog? Ideally, every dog should have acess to a safe place in which to play and relax. Although fenced yards provide room for some exercise and play, too many owners assume that their dogs receive enough exercise within the boundaries of the yard.

They never take their dogs for a walk and deprive themselves of many of the pleasures of pet ownership. One of the great myths of dog ownership is the need for a huge amount of space when really what a dog needs is your time.

EVERY DOG - NO MATTER WHAT BREED OR SIZE - DESERVES AT LEAST TWO WALKS A DAY AND EVERY OWNER WILL BENEFIT FROM PROVIDING THIS EXERCISE.

Why is walking your dog so important?

Time together, especially active time together, provides an opportunity for dog and owner to interact and establish mutual communication and a strong bond of affection.

Dogs on a walk also get to socialize with other dogs. This is especially beneficial for puppies who have had all their vaccines; they learn the rules of canine social interaction from meeting older dogs.

Most dogs will not run around a home and/or fenced yard enough to get the exercise they need. Your dog may run up and down the fence line barking at a passing stranger two or three times a day, but unless your yard is the size of a football field, that is not much exercise. If you and your dog walk a kilometer or more a day, you will both benefit by building strength and endurance, burning off calories, breathing fresh air and discovering what's new in the neighbourhood.

House and yard dogs get bored. Walk past a fenced yard and watch the resident dog race along the fence line, press its face through the links, bark, pant, whimper and practically turn somersaults to get your attention. Imagine being able to see a park, alley, or vacant lot from your home or yard but never getting the chance to explore it. No wonder dogs get frustrated! They deserve some variety in their lives, which daily walks can supply.

If it's too cold for you, it's too cold for your dog!

It is always important to check the weather conditions before you set out. A dog's temperature tolerance depends on many factors, including size, amount and type of fur and breed. Speak to your veterinarian about the particular exercise needs and temperature tolerance of your dog. There are many types of boots and coats now available for dogs of any size.

Scheduling your walks during the warmest time of the day in winter and the coolest time of day in the summer will lessen the chance of frost bite and heat exhaustion for both of you.

Crate Training

Every year, millions of dogs are surrendered to the pounds and humane societies because they are believed to be "untrainable". Their "bad behaviour" includes chewing furniture and shoes, barking too much and ignoring commands - all problems that are not permanent and easily corrected if you take the time to do so.

As difficult as it may be to remember, your dog is not a little person. You cannot reason with a dog to get him to behave the way you would like. Even though they have shared our homes for thousands of years, dogs still retain many of the instincts and characteristics of the wild dogs from whom they are descended. Bred from ancestral wolves, dogs are both pack and den animals and for this reason, most dogs will accept a crate as part of their lifestyle. Like a baby's playpen, a crate or cage is a place in which your dog can stay when you are unable to keep an eye on him.

Choosing a Crate

A crate is a dog's very own special place. When you choose a crate, be sure to select the correct size for your dog. The crate must be large enough for the adult dog to stand up straight, turn around and lie down in a stretched position. Crates usually come in two varieties: fiberglass and metal. A fiberglass crate will provide a greater sense of security for your dog; a metal crate is collapsible and will allow for better circulation.

Introducing Your Dog to the Crate

For crate training to be most successful, your dog must be properly introduced to the crate. Crate training should begin as soon as you bring your new dog home. Equip the crate with water and a blanket or towel. Start off slowly and increase the time gradually. Place the crate out of the way, but not away from the action: your dog is one of the family, and needs to feel he is not being banished when confined in the crate.

Introducing your dog to the crate should be positive and fun. Never place your dog in the crate after disciplining him. Your dog needs to feel the crate is a happy, secure place. Select a command such as "Into your house". Encourage your dog to enter by tossing a treat into the crate. Leave the door open at first. Once your dog enters readily, close the door for a few minutes, and praise him with a cheerful, positive voice. Leave your dog with a special chew toy, just for the times he is in the crate.

Scheduling is very important. Ideally, young puppies would not be crated for more than three hours at a time - they cannot be expected to hold their bladders for more than a couple of hours. Adult dogs should not be crated for much more than eight hours. If you must leave your puppy or dog for longer than the ideal length of time, be sure the crate is arranged to provide a bedding area and a papered area to accommodate "accidents". If your dog needs to use the papers in the crate, under no circumstances should you scold or punish him.

Any complaining your dog may do at the beginning is not usually caused by the crate, but by the new controls set by this unfamiliar environment. Do not let your dog out when he whines or complains. By doing so, you will only reward his bad behaviour. When your dog settles down for five minutes, release him from the crate.

Once you feel your dog can be left on his own, you may practice leaving him alone for short periods of time. Allow your dog access to only certain areas of your home. As with children, place breakables and dangerous items well out of reach!

Your dog's crate is a tool that should allow you to have a smoother, happier relationship with your dog. It is not intended as a place to leave your dog and ignore him.

While crate training is a very effective method of training your dog, it may not be the answer to every behaviour problem your dog might exhibit. If your dog seems to be taking a long time to come around, do not give up! Your dog can be trained to be a fastidious member of your household regardless of age. Just be sure to give your dog every chance to do the right thing, at the right time, in the right place, and let your dog know you love him for him!

The Golden Rules of Crate Training:

• The crate belongs to your dog. It should be off-limits to children.
  
• You are the "pack leader", and you are in charge. Your dog needs to learn this!
  
• Never let your dog out when he is whining. Giving in will make it more difficult to train him.
  
• Remember, you are doing your dog a favour by keeping him safe and out of trouble when you are unable to supervise him.
  
• Your dog's crate is not intended for long hours of use. When you are at home, your dog needs to be out of his "house" and in your company.
  
• Never use the crate as a means of punishment.
  
• Do not place the crate in a draft or in direct sunlight.
  
• Do not leave a collar or tag on your dog when he is in the crate. It may catch on the bars and cause injury to your dog.

Backyard Dogs

It is inhumane to keep a dog in the backyard chained, in a dog house etc. Dogs are highly social animals who are historically used to being part of a pack. This social interaction insured that a dog would be mentally healthy and secure. When the dog was domesticated, nearly 10,000 years ago, their wild "pack" was replaced by his owner's family.

Sadly, today's backyard dog, will seldom see the inside of a house and will eat, sleep and wait outside for any kind of attention from its owners. If a dog is chained and isolated outside, chances are he is an under-cared-for and under-stimulated-pet.

Some dog owners keep their animals outside in the mistaken belief that they will act as a deterrent to potential intruders. Intruders will quickly learn that the dog is in the yard and not in the house. Police statistics show that indoor dogs deter more than 90 per cent of all break-ins.

If you intend to keep your dog in your backyard, you can expect:

• A dog that barks excessively due to boredom and loneliness.
  
• Repetitive digging and chewing due to lack of exercise.
  
• Injuries to your dog stemming from his inability to escape or protect itself from attacks by other animals.
  
• Unwanted pregnancies if your dog is not spayed or neutered. Male dogs will seek out a female in heat any way they can; gates and fences are unlikely to stop them. The resulting litters of puppies will be an unwelcome and inconvenient addition for you and will add to the already critical problem of pet overpopulation.
  
• A dog that is overly aggressive will most likely direct his frustration at small children, neighbours, other neighbourhood animals and any strangers who approach him.
  
• Your dog will run a much higher risk of contracting diseases carried by urban wildlife than a dog that is sheltered inside.
  
• Your dog will be susceptible to fly-bites on its ears. This can result in open wounds on the area, which will eventually lead to maggots.
  
• If the outside temperature is too hot or too cold for you to feel comfortable, you can be sure that your dog feels the same discomfort.

Being confined outdoors is unhealthy and lonely for your dog. Remember, your dog needs to feel that he is a valuable member of your "pack" and, as such, he should be welcome to share your home at all times.

A backyard is not a home. Don't turn a cold shoulder to your dog.

Barking

With few exceptions, all dogs bark. Barking is a natural behaviour and it is a way of communicating. While the messages can range from loneliness to hunger or playfulness, most often barking is used as an alarm or alert signal that indicates to the other pack members that a stranger or intruder is approaching.

Most people have a feeling of security and comfort knowing their dogs are “on the job”. Some people even encourage their dogs to bark and growl when the doorbell rings or someone knocks. They feel this is acceptable behaviour, however, when the dogs become uncontrollable, with barking that is excessive, they become a nuisance. Life is miserable for neighbours who must listen day after day to barking dogs.

Excessive barking often begins in puppy-hood, when the pup who is not yet house-trained is unwisely shut behind closed doors. Improper confinement will definitely cause a barking problem, and dogs that are tied or tethered will eventually become frustrated and begin to bark to communicate their displeasure. We must always remember that dogs are pack animals. It is not natural or normal for them to be alone, however, millions of dogs must learn to cope confidently while members of the family go out daily to work.

Chewing, uncontrolled barking, house-training problems and destructive behaviour have put many dogs out of their homes, and all of this could be avoided if we simply communicated more effectively with our canine companions. They are part of a pack or family, similar in behaviour to their ancestors, the wolves. Wolves travel, hunt, sleep and eat in a group environment, therefore, we must modify this instinct. We must, in our human packs, make our dogs feel comfortable and secure about being alone in the “den” while the other pack members are away.

Because most barking takes place when you are away from home, you have no choice but to believe your neighbours when they complain.

Barking is actually quite common and not that difficult to rectify. Let us consider the encouraging owner who inadvertently praises and teaches his or her dog that its barking is the greatest thing, which makes the dog feel its owner is happy and pleased when he barks.

The easiest way to teach the dog to bark is command him to “speak”. So while the dog is barking at the door, the owner may use the command word “speak”. The dog will associate barking behaviour with this word. Now, your golden moment has arrived. You are going to teach your dog the word “quiet”, or “enough” or “shush” (your choice!). We do not teach the word “No”, because “No” means “Never, ever do that - ever".

When you command your dog to be “Quiet” and he keeps barking, you will have to teach him the meaning of the word “Quiet”. Hitting your dog or using other physical measure or mechanical or electronic aids are unkind and unnecessary. You may hold your dog’s muzzle closed (gently and kindly), or you may have to use a water pistol. Another method is to make a sudden sharp sound (rattle a pop can with some coins in it, or bang on a pot) to divert your dog’s attention from barking. When your dog has ceased to bark for at least three to five seconds, praise him in a quiet, calm voice, perhaps saying, “Good, quiet. Good!”. Avoid stroking, patting and hugging your dog at this point, as you may over-excite him again, and he may miss the point of the whole exercise.

Before you leave your dog alone, remember the following points:

• Provide adequate exercise.
  
• Leave the radio or television on.
  
• Provide your dog with proper chewing material - rawhide, nylabones and Kong toys stuffed with yummy stuff are good (beware of using real animal bones - they can splinter).
  
• Crate train your dog.
  
• Unplug your phone.
  
• Place a “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door. This may prevent trades people from knocking or ringing the bell, which would set your dog off on a barking cycle.
  
• Shut the shades or drapes so your dog cannot see outside.
  
• Make your departures calm. Tone things down and be matter of fact. Over-emotional, guilt-ridden departures (and entrances) put your dog in a state of anxiety.

Dogs and heat

Muggy Out? Then Keep Mugsy In! - Dogs, Hot Weather & Humidity - A Bad Combination

We all know that hot weather is dangerous for dogs (and other pets), which is why leaving a dog in a parked car on a warm day can be fatal.

High humidity means trouble for your dog!

Relative humidity is just as important as the outside temperature. A dog's body temperature can reach a dangerous level when the temperature is as low as 29 C/85 F and the humidity is above 90 per cent. In other words, as humidity rises, a dog's heat tolerance decreases. On the other hand, a dog can withstand higher temperatures when the humidity is lower.

How to protect your dog when traveling by plane in hot, humid weather:

The combination of heat and humidity can be life-threatening if your dog must travel by plane in warm weather. You should check the temperature and the relative humidity before you send your dog on his way. You should also obtain the same information for landing locations, in case the plane must sit on the runway for any length of time.

Dogs in parked cars? Not a good idea!

The rule to follow about leaving your pet in a parked car is "Don't!". A dog's temperature can rise dangerously high in a matter of minutes, which can result in heat stroke or even death. Your dog is much safer at home.

Remember...It's not just the heat, it's the humidity! Be aware of both to keep your pet safe.