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Please click below for information on caring for your new small domestic animal:
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of pet rabbits is 8-12 years, however this is completely dependent on breed. Giant breeds have a shorter lifespan, often 5-6 years, whereas some of the smaller breeds may live 15 years or even longer.
Diet
Hay:
Under 1 year – unlimited alfalfa hay
Over 1 year – unlimited timothy hay.
Unlimited means the rabbit should have access to it at ALL TIMES!
Pellets:
Under 1 year – unlimited alfalfa-based pellets
Over 1 year – ¼ cup per 6 lbs of body weight per day timothy-based pellets.
Always make the transition gradually, over 1-2 months. All pellets should have a MINIMUM fiber content of 18%.
Note: If your adult rabbit does not seem to eat Timothy hay, you will need to experiment with every brand/farm you can find in order to inspire your rabbit to eat this necessary staple. You may also substitute other grass hay, including brome hay, oat hay, orchard grass, and meadow grass. Alfalfa hay is NOT a substitute. It contains too much calcium and will lead to bladder/kidney/urine stones and other health complications.
Fresh Greens:
0-4 months - very limited amounts
4-6 months – gradually introduce as major part of diet
Over 6 months – 2 cups per 6 lbs of body weight per day.
Acceptable greens include Romaine Lettuce, dandelion, carrot tops, parsley, basil, dill. Other greens which are acceptable but should be limited due to calcium content include: kale, spinach, broccoli. Be sure you are providing carefully washed, organic produce that is free of any pesticides.
Treats:
1 - 2 Tbsp per 6lbs body weight per day of fresh fruit.
Carrots are considered in this category due to their high sugar content. Dried fruits may be given but have an elevated sugar content and must be limited. Some suggested fruits include carrot, banana, strawberries, watermelon, apple, dried cranberries, papaya. Be sure that you are providing carefully washed, organic produce that is free of any pesticides. Most commercial treats are high in sugar and/or carbohydrates and should be avoided altogether.
People food: Many rabbits enjoy people food. Anything from fruit to potato chips to soda can be appealing. But people food can cause serious digestive problems, and ultimately lead to G.I. Stasis which is a serious medical condition. Don’t leave food within reach of a rabbit. Note that if he can smell food he may go to great lengths to find a way of reaching the food you think you’ve placed out of the way.
House Plants: Domesticated rabbits have lost many of the instincts their wild relatives possess. Do not assume that a rabbit knows which plants are safe to eat and which are not. Keep rabbits away from ALL house plants, in order to prevent stomach upset or potentially more serious problems.
Common Toxic Foods:
Almonds, Acorns, Walnuts, Nutmeg
Avacoda
Apple and Pear seeds
Coffee, Chocolate
Bulb flowers
Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes
Green Beans
Water
Rabbits can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the rabbit will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your rabbit fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean. Filtered water is always best to give.
Litter Training
Rabbits can be 100% litter-trained, just like a cat! They are very clean animals by nature and are often naturally inclined to use a litter box. When a rabbit first comes to a new space, he may “mark” his new territory by leaving droppings or even spraying urine throughout the area. If in a home, he will soon become accustomed to the area and these tendencies will diminish. However, at a shelter, where the bunny may be in constant proximity to other rabbits or may be changing territories often, marking may persist. The most important factor in litter training a rabbit is having them spayed or neutered. This will lessen their territoriality and hormonal impulses significantly. It is also important not to allow a rabbit to use her entire cage as a litter box. This will only encourage poor litter habits throughout the rest of the space she has access to.
Many rabbits will be more easily litter trained if provided with two different boxes - one to lie in, one to poo in. Also, most rabbits enjoy the luxury of being able to eat and defecate at the same time, so placing a hay rack above the litter box will often encourage perfect litter habits!
Bedding
Acceptable beddings for the litter box include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding and litter products sold from your et store, wood stove pellets, and hemp bedding. The bedding in the litter box should differ from the bedding in the rest of the enclosure. It’s often best to use cardboard, towels or blankets (without lose threads your rabbit can ingest) throughout most of the cage, as it is comfy and this area should not be used by your rabbit for litter purposes.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your rabbit. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many rabbits will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not safe to use regular newspaper as the surface your rabbit walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for rabbits, especially the clumping kind. Rabbits may ingest these and they can lead to serious blockages in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, rabbits do not need baths. They are obsessive about their cleanliness and do an excellent job of keeping their fur very clean. In fact, bathing a rabbit can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended. In the event that a rabbit cannot clean himself (if he has had diarrhea which has stuck to his feet, tail and/or fur OR if he is overweight and cannot clean difficult-to-reach areas OR for any other reason) you must be responsible for cleaning him to prevent hock sores and fecal/urine scalding. Although rabbits are good swimmers, they do not like to be wet, so washing a rabbit can be challenging. For mild spots, wet a towel or paper towel and try to wipe the rabbit clean without getting him too wet. If it’s more serious or difficult to remove, you may have to submerge the area. If you can, have someone who is confident with rabbits to help you. One of you can hold the rabbit while the other washes. Always use warm water – not too hot and not too cold. When you’re done, carefully dry the rabbit as thoroughly as possible and ensure he’s warm until he’s perfectly dry.
Rabbits’ nails will need to be trimmed approximately every 2 months, with cat or small animal nail trimmers. This is very important to their comfort and health. Like dogs and cats, rabbits have a vein that comes partway out into their nail. This is called the “quick” and if it is cut it will bleed, cause pain, and could possibly lead to infection. Have commercial styptic powder or cornstarch on hand to stop bleeding in case the quick is accidentally cut. Never let a rabbit’s nails get too long. This will make them uncomfortable and will eventually cause permanent deformation of their feet. It is easiest to trim a rabbit’s nails when you have help. One person can hold the rabbit and the other can trim!
Rabbits usually enjoy being brushed, and it’s a good idea to brush them on a regular basis. Short-haired rabbits should be brushed at least once a week most of the year, and daily during sheds. Rabbits have 4 major sheds per year, seasonally. During these periods rabbits are much more prone to getting hairballs/blockages. To prevent this, brush away all excess hair from the rabbit. The wire ends of many cat and dog brushes are too sharp for a rabbit’s very thin, delicate skin, so ensure you have something the rabbit will be comfortable with.
Long-haired rabbits (Angoras, Jersey Wooleys, American Fuzzy Lops and mixed-breed, long-haired rabbits) require much more grooming than short-haired rabbits. These rabbits require daily maintenance of their long coats. Long-haired rabbits are much more easily maintained if their coats are kept trimmed short, ideally at 1” or less. If a long-haired rabbit develops mats in her hair, these must be carefully trimmed out. Mats are both uncomfortable and dangerous for rabbits and must be dealt with as soon as they are discovered. If left unchecked, they can cause blistering and skin tears, often leading to infection.
Housing
AS LARGE AS POSSIBLE! Most commercial cages sold at pet stores are not of an adequate size and are inappropriate for your pet. Be especially weary of “starter kits.” These are almost always too small and the products they include are often unsafe. To put size into relative terms, a small cage would be similar to locking you (a human) in your bathroom, with your tub as your bed and your medicine cabinet as your dining area. You would get grumpy and board quite fast in a space that limiting, and so would your rabbit! Minimum (even for a dwarf rabbit) is 36”x 24” x 24” and even this size may be too small for many rabbits. Pen living is better, and free-range is best. What would you think of someone who said they were going to keep their cat in a tiny cage for 20 hours a day? Rabbits can be the same size as cats, are just as easily litter trained, and need just as much, if not more, exercise.
If a cage is used, it should have a solid bottom, not a wire bottom which can cause hock sores. If you already have a cage with a wire bottom, cardboard, wood, blankets or towels should be laid down to make it a solid surface. Cage doors should be on the side, not just the top. The rabbit should be able to come and go from the cage on his own and not have to be picked up out of it, or placed back into it. A cage should also NOT be high off the ground, again because you want the rabbit to be able to hop out on its own, without risk of injury. Constantly having to put your rabbit back in his cage will cause your rabbit to associate his cage with punishment, and not think of it as his house. Inside the cage there should be a litter box, a food bowl, a water bowl or bottle, a hutch or hiding place, hay rack or box, toys and plenty of room to stretch out and move around. When the rabbit stands on his hind feet, he should not be able to reach the top of the cage easily.
Aquariums and “deluxe” aquarium-style cages are inhumane and are not appropriate for rabbits. They do not allow enough air circulation, and will cause your rabbit to become sick. They also don’t allow for the proper social interaction with your pet when she’s in her house.
The ideal is to have your rabbit be free-range, giving her a special area of a room where she can have a bed, a hiding place, a litter box and a food area. Pen living is the next best thing. Set up a large dog pen instead of a cage, so your rabbit has a bit of room to move around. You may also choose to build your rabbit a deluxe, custom-designed condo out of Neat Idea Cubes (NIC cubes) which you can find at many department and hardware stores in the storage section. You can connect these with heavy-duty zip ties to build a very sturdy and fun enclosure.
Rabbits should be kept in a social area of the household where they can be interacted with easily. However, they should be kept away from kitchen fumes and smells, fridges, draughty areas, loud TVs, music and direct sunlight. Rabbits are extremely sensitive to temperature. Ideally, they should live in an environment at room temperature, between 17-22ºC (62-72ºF). If your house is too cold in the winter, you must find a way of keeping your rabbit warm. Similarly, if you do not have air conditioning in the summer months, you will have to provide your rabbit with cool cloths, frozen water bottles and other means of cooling to keep their body temperatures down.
It is not acceptable to house a rabbit outdoors, not even seasonally or for a short period of time. Domestic rabbits become extremely stressed by the noises and smells of the outdoors, and are very susceptible to temperature changes, wind, rain and snow. Predators are also a danger. Dogs, cats, raccoons, foxes, coyotes and birds of prey can terrify your rabbit if they come near, and are easily able to injure or kill your rabbit if they break into his housing. Also, housing your rabbit outdoors means that he is not properly included as an equal member of your household. By bringing a rabbit into your family, you are replacing his natural warren family with your own, and becoming his social group. He requires this social interaction and being constantly surrounded by his family in order to feel safe and happy. A rabbit who lives outdoors is more of an accessory than a valued member of the family. He will lead a very lonely and stressful life.
Exercise To understand the importance of exercise as a portion of a rabbit’s basic care, consider the rabbit’s ancestors: the European rabbit. The normal territorial space of an adult is approximately 2 acres, when food is in good supply. This is the minimum territory the rabbit would explore every day, in search of food and mates. During winter months, when food is short, this territory expands further. In addition, rabbits are anatomically designed to move quickly to avoid predation.
Now we place this beautiful, graceful animal in a tiny cage and expect it to thrive and do well. In fact, rabbits need extensive exercise to all their muscles, including their heart, need to strengthen their bones, burn fat and stimulate internal organ function. None of this can be done when confined to a small space. In addition, rabbits develop behavioural issues when they are confined to the boredom of small cages.
Ideally, rabbits would all live free-range in their homes. This means that they either have no cage or the door to their cage is always left open. If this is not possible, the absolute MINIMUM time a rabbit needs outside of her cage is 4-6 hours a day. Please be sure you can commit to your rabbit roaming your house for this amount of time BEFORE bringing one home.
Issues in rabbits, related to lack of exercise include:
- Obesity
- Can lead to other health conditions such as skin irritation due to urine scaled, inability to ingest cecotropes causing inadequate absorption of nutrients, higher risk under anesthetic, etc.
- Pododermatitis (hock sores)
- Poor bone density
- Can lead to osteoporosis, which can be very dangerous if the rabbit (who is already a very delicate creature) is handled improperly
- Poor muscle tone
- Including the heart. This affects the rabbit’s ability to tolerate stress.
- Poor gastrointestinal and urinary function
- Including G.I. Stasis and sludgy urine
- Behavioural problems
- Aggression, territoriality, antisocial behaviour, obsessive grooming, obsessive chewing
- Depression and lethargy
Handling Rabbits have a unique body structure and must be handled in a different way from most common pets. When picking them up, you must support both their chest under their front legs, and their bum. Rabbits have very strong back legs and very delicate spines. If their bum is not supported they are able to kick out with their back legs and the power of their kick can dislocate or even fracture their spines, possibly causing permanent paralysis. When cuddling them against your chest, make sure their bum is supported and their body feels secure, but not constricted. In general, most rabbits do not like to be picked up, especially by people lacking confidence. They like to be cuddled on their terms, with all four feet on the ground. Children should never be allowed to hold a rabbit without proper and experienced adult supervision. Always put a struggling rabbit down. Struggling and kicking will only lead to injuries to both the rabbits and the people handling them.
Rabbits and Children
Parents often look to rabbits as a good “first pet” for their child. In the media, they are often portrayed as docile, cuddly and easy to care for, the perfect pet for a child! In reality, rabbits don’t fit this image and many people are surprised and disappointed by their new pets. Below are some useful facts relating to rabbits and children.
Rabbits don’t like to be picked up
There are always exceptions to the rules, but in general, rabbits do not like to be handled. In nature, they are prey animals and their comfort and security depends on having all four feet on the ground, so they feel they are able to make a quick escape from predators or dangers. Rabbits are also extremely delicate animals. The force of their back legs kicking out if they struggle in a child’s hold can not only injure the child, it can dislocate or fracture their own spines, causing serious injury or permanent paralyzation.
Rabbits are NOT low-maintanance
Despite the myths that some pet stores will tell you, rabbits are not happy as caged animals. At the very least, they need 4 consecutive hours of exercise time outside of their cage a day, but ideally should be given free-range of the house for most or all of the day. They need sufficient mental and physical stimulation, and consistent social interaction. They require clean litter boxes on a daily basis and fully washed cages on a weekly basis. They need careful monitoring of diet and clean water every day. When they become ill they need medical attention from a qualified and experienced rabbit veterinarian. Often, this is more expensive than the care other animals such as dogs and cats require, since rabbits are considered “exotic” pets in the veterinary world.
Rabbits should never be used as a lesson in responsibility
Never use an animal to teach your child responsibility. Experimentation with real lives is cruel and unfair. Understand that when acquiring an animal for your child, it is ultimately your responsibility, not your child’s. Despite your child’s best intentions, if they lose interest in the pet, you must carry the entire responsibility of the health, happiness and well-being of the animal on your shoulders. By acquiring a rabbit, you are making it a LIFE TIME COMMITMENT. Even if your child is very active in the care of your pet, you must be the one who is responsible for monitoring diet and health and making sure it is properly cared for every day.
Rabbits need a calm and mature environment
Please consider the personality and age of your child before deciding on a rabbit as a pet. In order for a rabbit to be an appropriate pet for your family, your children should be calm and cooperative. They need to realize that rabbits need to live in a quiet and ordered environment. As rabbits need to be handled very particularly and delicately, it is never a good idea to leave a rabbit with a young child. Children under the age of 7 do not possess the strength or coordination to safely handle a rabbit, and no child under 12 years of age should handle a rabbit without supervision. Mishandling of your rabbit can lead to serious injury or permanent paralyzation of your pet, and to injury of your child.
Rabbits Require TIME
Rabbits require several hours of your time EVERY DAY for socializing, cleaning, grooming, and care. If you and your family do not have this time to give, please do not consider a rabbit as a pet. Remember, rabbits can live 8-12 years. This is a long-term commitment that must last for the whole of your pet’s life.
Bonded Pairs and Bonding
In general, rabbits enjoy living in pairs. However, rabbits can be very particular about who they get along with, so bonding has to be approached cautiously. If you have decided that a pair of rabbits is right for you, please consider adopting an already bonded pair from your local shelter. Pairs of rabbits are often more difficult for shelters to adopt out, so they end up waiting in shelters for months, or being euthanized. Adopting an already bonded pair of rabbits will save you a lot of time and effort you will need to put into bonding a pair on your own. If your shelter doesn’t have a bonded pair, but you would like to have two rabbits, acquiring two rabbits at the same time will often lead to a simpler introduction, as this eliminates issues of previously established territory. If you already have a rabbit at home and would like to get them a friend, a few rules can help: make sure both rabbits are spayed or neutered before introducing them; choose a rabbit of the opposite sex to the one you have at home; when at all possible, let your rabbit do the choosing – bring your rabbit to a shelter where you can do a meet and greet with potential friends. These introductions, although never a guarantee of success, will be good indicators of the potential for a good bond. DO YOUR RESEARCH. Bonding rabbits can be a long and exhausting process so read as much as you can from books, pamphlets and online resources before you begin. Be prepared to dedicate A LOT of your time to adjusting your two friends to each other. This process, in the best of times can take as short as a few days. If you are faced with a difficult bond however, it could take several months, or longer. You need to be prepared to work with your rabbits every day for as long as it takes. There is always the possibility that a bond will not work out, or that an existing bond may break. If this happens, you must be prepared to keep your rabbits separate from each other, while still providing them with equal and adequate exercise, for the rest of their lives. This can be stressful so make sure you are prepared for the possibility of this outcome BEFORE you decide to get a second rabbit.
Once rabbits are bonded, they become very stressed and depressed when separated. This means that they have to do everything together. They should ride in carriers together, visit the vet together, sleep, eat and play together. When one rabbit in a bonded pair passes away, it can be very hard on the one left behind. Serious depression and separation anxiety can result, and can cause lethargy, loss of appetite and other health issues which can ultimately lead to death if not properly cared for. Each rabbit grieves in his own way, but a depressed rabbit needs to be given extra love, attention and care. It is often a good idea to try to re-bond your depressed rabbit to someone new.
Bonding Tips:
- Let your rabbit pick his partner. Bring your current rabbit to your local shelter for “meet and greet” sessions with other bunnies. Observe who he seems to like the best, This can be a very good indicator of which bonds may work out.
- Ensure that both animals have been altered BEFORE introducing them. Your best bet for a bonded pair is always going to be a spayed female with a neutered male. Two females or two males is not impossible, but is much less likely to be successful.
- Prepare a neutral space in your home. One where you current rabbit has never been. If your current rabbit has been everywhere, you may have to go to another location for bonding sessions. Try a laundry room or a friend’s house.
- House your rabbits side by side so they can get used to the sight and mannerisms of the other. Switch cages or enclosures every day to get them mused to each other’s smell and lessen the possibility of cage possessiveness. NEVER attempt to house your rabbits together from the outset. You will have to purchase a second enclosure.
- Learn to recognize aggressive body language (i.e. tail erect, ears back, tense body, etc.) so you can intervene BEFORE a fight begins. Also recognize the difference between mounting and nipping to establish dominance and more harmful aggressive behaviour.
- Be consistent and very patient. Have sessions every day and keep at it. It could take weeks, or even months for a bond to be successful.
- Do your research. There is a plethora of bonding information, chat groups, forums, books and pamphlets with tips and advice for those looking to bond their rabbits. Take advantage of the experience of others!
- Have a backup plan! In the event of a bond not working, make sure you are able to house and care for your rabbits separately.
Co-habitation with different species
Rabbits often get along with other species including dogs, cats, guinea pigs, birds, etc. However, this is on an individual basis and must be assessed carefully. Rabbits should never be left alone with other species until you have a very clear idea of how they interact together and have spent several weeks supervising them together.
Psychology Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while rabbits are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: rabbits are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Rabbits need to feel safe and secure. They need to have hiding places for quick escapes, they need to know that all four of their feet are securely on the ground in case they have to make that escape, and you need to slowly and carefully earn their trust.
Rabbits are social animals. They need to be interacted with daily and consistently to be happy. Especially with singly-housed rabbits, the human interaction you provide must substitute all of his natural need for social co-existence.
Rabbits are highly intelligent. Just because a rabbit gets frightened by things that you think are silly, doesn’t mean she’s not smart. She is listening to her instincts and protecting herself. When she is comfortable in her environment, don’t be surprised if she seems to scheme or get into trouble on purpose, or if she teaches herself how to get out of her cage or climb onto a dining room table. A rabbit’s intelligence will continually astonish and delight you.
As a prey species, rabbits do not generally enjoy being held or handled. They do not feel secure unless they know that all 4 of their feet are on the ground, and they are able to escape from a predator at any time.
Spaying and Neutering
It is extremely important to spay or neuter rabbits. Spaying or neutering will normalize their hormones and make them calmer and less territorial. Because of this they will be much more easily litter-trained and easier to handle. Destructive behaviours tend to calm as they are less frustrated by their hormonal states. Spaying and neutering is also very important from a health standpoint. 80% of unaltered female rabbits over the age of 4 will develop uterine cancer, and males too can develop health complications. Therefore, by simply spaying or neutering your pet you can more than DOUBLE LIFE EXPECTANCY.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of fancy rat is 2-3 years.
Diet
A rat's food intake is not as easily monitored as some animals, as they naturally hoard food, storing it in several hiding spots throughout the cage. Although you may see an entire bowl of food disappear in one or two days, chances are if you clean the cage thoroughly, you will discover that most of the food has been hidden, not eaten.
Rodent Block:
Always ensure that a rat has a fresh supply of a good quality, nutritious rodent block as his dietary staple.
Fresh Veggies and Fruits:
Rats should get 2-3 servings (where a teaspoon = 1 serving) of fresh veggies and fruits a day. Try to have a lot of variety, and only serve those fruits high in sugar occasionally.
Nuts:
Nuts are not a major part of the diet, but will be enjoyed and may be used as the occasional treat.
Table Scraps:
Although omnivorous and able to digest almost anything, it is generally accepted that the healthiest diet for rats does not many meats or dairy products.
Common Toxic Foods:
Coffee, Chocolate
Sweet Potatoes
Potato skin, eyes and shoots
Green Beans
Avocadoes
Blue Cheese
Red raw cabbage
Green bananas
Raw Brussels sprouts and artichokes
Rhubarb
Soda
Orange Juice
Water
Rats can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the rat will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your rat fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean. Very young rats should not be given a water bowl, as they may fall in and drown.
Litter Training
If started at a young age, many rat caregivers are successful at litter training their pet rats. The easiest this to do is watch to see what area (usually a corner) the rat is usig as his toilet, and putting a small litter box in that spot.
Bedding
Acceptable beddings for the litter box, pen or cage include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding and litter products from your pet store, and hemp bedding. It’s often best to use cardboard, towels or blankets (without lose threads the guinea rat can ingest) throughout most of the cage, as it is less likely to contribute to respiratory issues due to dust level, allergies, and moisture build-up.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your rat. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many rats will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface your rat walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for rats, especially the clumping kind. Rats may ingest these and they can lead to serious blockages in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, rats do not need baths. They are obsessive about their cleanliness and do an excellent job of keeping their fur very clean. In fact, bathing a rat can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended.
Rats' nails will need to be checked for trimming approximately every 2-3 months. They may have worn down naturally on rough textures provided in the cage. Trim with small animal or small bird nail trimmers, being careful just to take off the tip and not cut the quick. Rats are not often cooperative and it is easiest to trim their nails when you have help. One person can hold the rat and the other can trim!
Housing
Appropriate housing for rats needs to provide enough space to run, climb to multiple levels, and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. A tunnel and a hammock is also recommended. For an average rat, this requires a space at least 24"x18"x24".
Naturally social animals, rats should, wherever possible, be housed in same-sex social groups of 2-8 rats per cage. However, unacquainted rats can fight, and must be introduced carefully. Rats being adopted should be adopted in pairs or groups. Group housing requires greater allotted space, which should increase incrementally with the number of rats housed.
Cages need to have adequate space to allow for many environmental enrichment opportunities and activities, and if done securely, more than one cage may be connected together.
Exercise Although when provided with adequate food, wild rats only move within a 20m³ space, that's still a far cry from the tiny space they're usually given in a cage. Rats need space to exercise, store food, play, sleep, and hide. They also need as much space as can be provided, because they are house socially and being in too-close quarters can result in fighting or marginalizing those lower on the hierarchy. Wild rats tend to avoid confrontation and fighting, and will usually choose to run. In a cage, there's nowhere to go, and its been found that domestic rats spend much more of their energy on fighting and displays of dominance than those in the wild. Providing more space will alleviate much of the stress on a social group.
Rats should spend a minimum of 1 hour a day exercising outside of the cage, between human handling/socializing and a large play area.
Handling
Although delicate, rats have a relatively compact body design, and are generally easy to handle. When picking up, try to use both hands and support the rat's whole body securely. Do not drop a rat, as this can cause serious injury. If a rat is struggling, put her down.
When handling a rat for a specific purpose (i.e. nail trimming), have someone help you. If one person holds the rat firmly, the other can execute what is needed quickly, safely, and with the least risk to everyone.
Bonded Pairs and Bonding
Bonded animals are known to create less stress hormones, and can handle the environment of a shelter more easily. Rats housed in pairs who have formed bonds must never be separated. Separated rats (either before or as the result of death) can suffer from extreme depression and may become lethargic and refuse to eat.
Psychology
Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while rats, even though they are omnivores, are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: rats are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Rats need to feel safe and secure. They need to have hiding places for quick escapes, they need to know that all four of their feet are securely on the ground (whether horizontal or vertical) in case they have to make that escape, and you need to slowly and carefully earn their trust. However, they are very curious by nature and may choose to approach what we would think are dangerous situations.
Rats are extremely social animals. They need to be interacted with daily and consistently, by both humans and other rats, to be happy. If a rat is singly-housed, the human interaction you provide must substitute all of his natural need for social co-existence.
Spaying and Neutering
Although not commonly practiced, there are significant health benefits to spaying female rats. Over 70% of unspayed female rats develop mammary and/or pituitary tumours, whether benign or cancerous. The rate of tumours in spayed rats drops to only 4%.
Advantages for neutering males are more behaviour-based, as neutered male rats have been found to be 85% less aggressive, and are 80% less likely to mark by dribbling urine.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of pet rabbits is 5-8 years.
Diet
Hay:
Under 6 months – unlimited alfalfa hay
Over 6 months – unlimited timothy hay.
Unlimited means the guinea pig should have access to it at ALL TIMES!
Note: If your guinea pig does not seem to eat Timothy hay, you will need to experiment with every brand/farm you can find in order to inspire your piggy to eat this necessary staple. You may also substitute other grass hay, including brome hay, oat hay, orchard grass, and meadow grass. Alfalfa hay is NOT a substitute. It contains too much calcium and protein and will lead to bladder/kidney/urine stones, obesity and other health complications.
Pellets:
Under 6 months – unlimited alfalfa-based pellets
Over 6 months – ¼ cup per day timothy-based pellets.
Always make the transition gradually, over a month. All pellets should be of good quality, with a high fibre content and adequate vitamin C.
Fresh Greens/Veggies:
3 – half to one cup servings per day. Each serving should be of a different vegetable, and at least one of them should be a leafy green.
Acceptable greens/veggies include Romaine Lettuce, dandelion, carrot tops, parsley, basil, dill, kale, spinach, broccoli, green peppers, tomatoes and others. Be sure you are providing carefully washed, organic produce that is free of any pesticides.
Treats:
1 - 2 Tbsp per 2lbs body weight per week.
Carrots are high in sugar and should be considered a part of this category. Dried fruits may be given but have elevated sugar content and must be limited. Some suggested fruits include carrot, strawberries, watermelon, apple, dried cranberries, papaya. Limit bananas and grapes. Be sure that you are providing carefully washed, organic produce that is free of any pesticides. Most commercial treats are high in sugar and/or carbohydrates and should be avoided altogether.
People food: Many guinea pigs enjoy people food. Pigs have a sweet tooth and anything from fruit to potato chips to soda can be appealing. But people food can cause serious digestive problems, and ultimately lead to G.I. Stasis which is a serious medical condition. Don’t leave food within reach of a guinea pig.
House Plants: Domesticated guinea pigs have lost many of the instincts their wild relatives possess. Do not assume that a pig knows which plants are safe to eat and which are not. Keep guinea pigs away from ALL house plants, in order to prevent stomach upset or potentially more serious problems.
Water
Guinea pigs can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the pig will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your guinea pig fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean. Filtered water is always best to give.
Common Toxic Foods:
Coffe, Chocolate
Potatoes
Green Beans
Avacadoes
Unique Dietary Requirements
Like humans but unlike most other animals, guinea pigs cannot produce their own vitamin C, and must ingest what they need in their diet. It is for this reason that it is so important for guinea pigs to receive a good quality, fresh guinea pig pellets (pellets retain vitamin C for only 30 days from milling date), as well as many types of fresh greens and veggies. If not adequately provided, guinea pigs will succumb to scurvy.
Litter Training Although some people are successful at litter training their guinea pigs if they begin from a young age, they are not known for their natural litter abilities. To encourage a guinea pig to use a litter box, try placing the hay in or over the litter box.
Bedding Acceptable beddings for the litter box, pen or cage include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding products, and hemp bedding. It’s often best to use cardboard, towels or blankets (without lose threads the guinea pig can ingest) throughout most of the cage, as it is less likely to build up moisture and mould.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your guinea pig. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many pigs will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface your guinea pig walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for guinea pigs, especially the clumping kind. Pigs may ingest these and they can lead to serious blockages in the digestive tract.
Grooming In general, guinea pigs do not need baths. They are obsessive about their cleanliness and do an excellent job of keeping their fur very clean. In fact, bathing a pig can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended. In the event that a guinea pig cannot clean himself (if he has had diarrhea which has stuck to his feet and/or fur OR if he is overweight and cannot clean difficult-to-reach areas OR for any other reason) you must be responsible for cleaning him to prevent sores and fecal/urine scalding. Although guinea pigs are good swimmers, they do not generally like to be wet, so washing a pig can be challenging. For mild spots, wet a towel or paper towel and try to wipe the guinea clean without getting him too wet. If it’s more serious or difficult to remove, you may have to submerge the area. Make sure the water is mild – not too hot or cold. When you’re done, carefully dry the guinea pig as thoroughly as possible and ensure he’s warm until he’s perfectly dry.
Guinea pigs’ nails will need to be trimmed approximately every 2 months, with cat or small animal nail trimmers. This is very important to their comfort and health. Like dogs and cats, guinea pigs have a vein that comes partway out into their nail. This is called the “quick” and if it is cut it will bleed, cause pain, and could possibly lead to infection. Have commercial styptic powder or cornstarch on hand to stop bleeding in case the quick is accidentally cut. Never let a guinea pig’s nails get too long. They will being to grow into a corkscrew and can imbed themselves into the feet, causing pain and deformation. It is easiest to trim a guinea pig’s nails when you have help. One person can hold the pig and the other can trim!
Many long-haired guinea pigs enjoy being brushed, and it’s a good idea to brush them on a regular basis to prevent ingestion of hair. Short-haired guinea pigs may not need to be brushed, depending on breed. should be brushed at least once a week most of the year, and daily during sheds. The wire ends of many cat and dog brushes are too sharp for a guinea pig’s skin, so ensure you have something the piggy will be comfortable with.
Long-haired guinea pigs (Coronet, Peruvian, Silkie, Texel) require much more grooming than short-haired pigs. These piggies require daily maintenance of their long coats. Long-haired guinea pigs are much more easily maintained if their coats are kept trimmed short, ideally at 1” or less. If a long-haired guinea pig develops mats in her hair, these must be carefully trimmed out. Mats are both uncomfortable and dangerous for pigs and must be dealt with as soon as they are discovered. If left unchecked, they can cause blistering and skin tears, often leading to infection.
Housing
Appropriate shelter housing for guinea pigs needs to provide enough space to run and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. A tunnel is also recommended. For an average guinea pig, this requires a space at least 3’x2’x14”
Naturally social animals, guinea pigs should, wherever possible, be housed in same-sex pairs. However, unacquainted pigs can fight, and guinea pigs in shelters can be very territorial of their cages. Large cages or medium-sized pens may be used to house guinea pigs, provided that they allow enough space for environmental enrichment activities.
Exercise
In the wild, guinea pigs will graze over large areas and travel significant distances to find adequate food. The idea that they can thrive in a tiny cage is something humans have assumed and imposed on this complex species.
In fact, guinea pigs need extensive exercise to all their muscles, including their heart, need to strengthen their bones, burn fat and stimulate internal organ function. None of this can be done when confined to a small space. In addition, guinea pigs develop behavioural issues, and are easily under-socialized when they are confined to the boredom and lack of interaction typical of small cages.
Guinea pigs should spend a minimum of 1-2 hours a day exercising in a large play area outside of the cage or pen.
Handling
Although delicate, guinea pigs have a relatively compact body design, and are generally easier to handle than rabbits. When picking up, use both hands and support the guinea pig's chest and hind end securely. Do not drop a guinea pig, as this can cause serious injury. If a guinea pig is struggling, put her down.
When handling a guinea pig for a specific purpose (i.e. nail trimming), have someone help you. If one person holds the guinea pig firmly, the other can execute what is needed quickly, safely, and with the least risk to everyone.
Bonded Pairs and Bonding
Bonded animals are known to create less stress hormones, and can handle the environment of a shelter more easily. Guinea pigs who have formed bonds must never be separated. Separated pigs (either before or as the result of death) can suffer from extreme depression and may become lethargic and refuse to eat. Some guinea pigs never recover, and will starve themselves to death, while others are able to better handle their grief. Attempting to immediately re-bond a very depressed guinea pig is often a happy way to help the piggy recover from her loss.
Psychology
Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while guinea pigs are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: guinea pigs are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Guinea pigs need to feel safe and secure. They need to have hiding places for quick escapes, they need to know that all four of their feet are securely on the ground in case they have to make that escape, and you need to slowly and carefully earn their trust.
Guinea pigs are social animals. They need to be interacted with daily and consistently to be happy. Especially with singly-housed pigs, the human interaction you provide must substitute all of his natural need for social co-existence.
Guinea pigs may not be the sharpest pencils in the evolutionary box, but just because a guinea pig gets frightened by things that you think are silly, doesn’t mean she’s not smart – for a guinea pig... She is listening to her instincts and protecting herself. When handled with love and care, guinea pigs will never fail to give you constant devotion and affection.
As a prey species, guinea pigs may not enjoy being held or handled. They do not feel secure unless they know that all 4 of their feet are on the ground, and they are able to escape from a predator at any time.
Spaying and Neutering
There is not a significant health advantage to sterilizing guinea pigs, as there is with rabbits and rats. Therefore, most people opt to properly sex and separate guinea pigs, instead of spaying or neutering.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of Syrian hamster is 2-3 years, while dwarf hamsters live 1.5-2.5 years.
Diet
A hamster's food intake is not as easily monitored as some animals, as they naturally hoard food, storing it in a main hiding spot in the cage, usually close to the sleeping area. Although you may see an entire bowl of food disappear in one or two days, chances are if you clean the cage thoroughly, you will discover that most of the food has been hidden, not eaten.
Rodent Block:
Always ensure that a hamster has a fresh supply of a good quality, nutritious rodent block as his dietary staple. Do not use a hamster mix, as the hamster will tend to pick out his favourite foods and not receive a balanced diet.
Fresh Veggies and Fruits:
Rats should get 1-2 servings (where a ½ teaspoon = 1 serving) of fresh veggies and fruits a day. Try to have a lot of variety, and only serve those fruits which are higher in sugar occasionally.
Nuts:
Nuts are not a major part of the diet, but will be enjoyed and may be used as the occasional treat.
Common Toxic Foods:
Coffe, Chocolate
Sweet Potatoes
Potato skin, eyes and shoots
Raw Beans
Avacadoes
Blue Cheese
Red raw cabbage
Green bananas
Raw Brussels sprouts and artichokes
Rhubarb
onions
Soda
Orange Juice
Water
To avoid drowning hazards, most hamsters should drink from a water bottle. However, water bottles often lead to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. It is most important to give your hamster fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle stays clean.
Litter Training
If started at a young age, some hamster caregivers are successful at litter training their pet rats. The easiest thing to do is watch to see what area (usually a corner) the hamster is using as his toilet, and putting a small litter box in that spot.
Bedding
Acceptable beddings for the litter box or cage include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding products and hemp bedding. Hamsters may chew on pelleted beddings, which if swallowed can be very dangerous as they expand with moisture. Hamsters construct large nests, and need to be provided with an appropriate nesting material they can shred. Toilet paper, or toilet paper rolls are economical and ideal. Pet stores also sell a fluffy nesting material, but this can get stuck in the hamster’s cheeks and cause infections.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your hamster. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many hamsters will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface your hamster walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for hamster, especially the clumping kind. Hamsters may ingest these and they can lead to serious complications in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, hamsters do not need baths. They are obsessive about their cleanliness and do an excellent job of keeping their fur very clean. In fact, bathing a hamster can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended.
Long-haired hamsters are prone to mats. These should be carefully trimmed out to prevent blistering and skin tears. Long-haired hamsters should he house in a bedding that does not get easily tangled in their long, fine hair.
Housing
In the wild, hamsters have extensive burrows with many chambers and tunnels, extending to 3’ below the surface, and are able to store over 200lbs of food at a time, although 30-40lbs is more common. Although your housing will not be able to accommodate this, larger space than the status quo needs to be considered for these tiny animals.
Appropriate housing for hamsters needs to provide enough space to run, climb to at least one level, dig and burrow, and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. A tunnel is also recommended. For an average hamster, we should be looking at a cage or aquarium that is no less than 24”x12”x18”.
Syrian hamsters are solitary animals and will fight, often to the death, if housed together in adulthood, even if they’re a mating pair. Dwarf hamsters, on the other hand, are social animals, preferring to live in small colonies or family groups. Whenever possible, dwarf hamsters should live and be adopted with at least one other of its species, but care must be taken to properly sex and separate males from females.
Cages need to have adequate space to allow for many environmental enrichment opportunities and activities, and if done securely, more than one cage may be connected together. Hamsters are notorious escape artists, so makes sure whatever setup you have is very secure.
Exercise and Environmental Enrichment Hamsters in the wild will travel up to 13km in one night, in search of food to store in their burrows. Hamsters need exercise and constant activity to remain healthy. They are often overlooked as far as environmental enrichment is concerned, because the typical human will see them mostly while they are sleeping and inactive. They need space to run, play, burrow, and climb, as well as store food. Safe hamster wheels can be a fun activity, but are ultimately a poor substitute for adequate space.
Hamsters should spend a minimum of 30 minutes - 1 hour a day between human socialization and a large play area. However, consideration needs to be given to the natural habits of these animals, allowing them their natural sleep cycle and playing with them in the late evening and night.
Some possible enrichment ideas for hamsters are cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls, hanging toys, ladders, tunnels, and digging space.
Foraging is one of the easiest and most important means of environmental enrichment. In the wild, hamsters spend the majority of their time searching for their food. They are busy all night long, hunting out food to store. With so much to do just to keep your food storage full, wild hamsters are rarely bored.
Why is it then, that as soon as we domesticated hamsters, we assumed that they would appreciate being tossed a bowl of rodent block and be done with it? In fact, taking the work out of a hamster’s diet has created something the species hasn't had to deal with before – boredom. If we make hamsters work for their food - place their rodent block, treats and veggies in hard-to-reach places, or inside/underneath other objects, we add the interest and challenge back into mealtime, and suddenly they have a lot less spare time on their hands!
Handling The small size of hamsters can make them squirmy and difficult to handle. When picking them up, try to use both hands and support the hamster’s whole body securely. Do not drop a hamster, as this can cause serious injury. If the hamster is struggling, put her down gently.
Hamsters have a tendency to become “bitey,” and need to be handled every day to ensure they are comfortable with human interaction.
Psychology Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while hamsters, even though they are omnivores, are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: hamsters are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Hamsters need to feel safe and secure. They need to have hiding places for quick escapes, they need to know that all four of their feet are securely on the ground (whether horizontal or vertical) in case they have to make that escape, and you need to slowly and carefully earn their trust. However, they are very curious by nature and may choose to approach what we would think are dangerous situations.
Hamsters are not social by nature. They need to be interacted with daily and consistently, by humans in order to be comfortable with handling. Otherwise they will become aggressive and bitey.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of gerbil is 3-5 years, but some have been reported to have lived up to 7 years.
Diet
A gerbil's diet should be well-balanced. Although many gerbil food mixes are this, gerbils may pick and choose what they like, and leave bits they don't prefer behind, nullifying the value of the mix. A good idea is to feed mainly rodent block, which was scientifically developed to be balanced, and supplement this with other foods for variety and interest. Each gerbils should eat about a tablespoon a day.
Supplemental foods include fresh fruit and vegetables, dried fruits, and a variety of seeds and nuts. A suggestion is offering one rodent block, and make up the rest of the tablespoon with at least three of the supplemental foods. Do not feed too many fruits, as this may lead to diarrhea.
Common Toxic Foods:
Coffe, Chocolate
Sweet Potatoes
Potato skin, eyes and shoots
Green Beans
Avacadoes
Blue Cheese
Red raw cabbage
Green bananas
Raw Brussels sprouts and artichokes
Rhubarb
Soda
Orange Juice
Water
Gerbils can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the gerbil will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your gerbil fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean. Water bowls should not be used in cages with young gerbils, as they are a drowning hazard.
Litter Training
If started at a young age, many gerbil caregivers are successful at litter training their pet gerbils. The easiest this to do is watch to see what area (usually a corner) the gerbil is using as his toilet, and putting a small litter box in that spot.
Bedding
Acceptable beddings for the litter box or cage include aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding products, and hemp bedding. Specialized sand can be used as a digging substrate.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your gerbil. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many gerbils will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface a gerbil walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for gerbils, especially the clumping kind. Gerbils may ingest these and they can lead to serious complications in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, gerbils do not need water baths, and will do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean and healthy if given a proper dust bath. In fact, water bathing a gerbil can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended.
Housing
Appropriate housing for gerbils needs to provide enough space to run, climb, dig extensively, and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. There must be space for a dust bath. An exercise wheel and a tunnel are also recommended. For an average pair of gerbils, we should be looking at an enclosure that is approximately 24"x12"x18". Gerbil breeders and associations around the world agree that gerbils are best housed in aquariums. Gerbils will quickly chew through hard plastic, and metal bars can damage their sensitive teeth.
Gerbils should be socially housed in same-sex groups of 2-6. As colony animals, this is very important to the stress level and quality of life of the gerbils. Every effort should be made to adopt bonded clans together, as separation can cause depression, lethargy and anorexia. Enclosures need to have adequate space for the total number of gerbils housed, as well as allow for many environmental enrichment opportunities and activities.
Exercise and Environmental Enrichment
In the wild, gerbils can travel 8km in one day in search of food, and they live in extensive underground burrows, stretching down several feet. Although your housing will not be able to accommodate this kind of space, a change in attitude towards housing gerbils has to occur. They need space to run, play, burrow, climb, and have a dust bath. Safe exercise wheels can be a fun activity, but are ultimately a poor substitute for adequate space.
Ideally, gerbils should spend a minimum of 30 minutes a day between human socialization and a large play area. Some possible enrichment ideas for gerbils are cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls, hanging toys, ladders, tunnels, extensive digging space, exercise wheels and dust baths.
Foraging is one of the easiest and most important means of environmental enrichment. In the wild, gerbils spend a lot of their time searching for food. With so much to do just to keep fed, wild gerbils are rarely bored.
Why is it then, that as soon as we domesticated gerbils, we assumed that they would appreciate being tossed a bowl of seeds and be done with it? In fact, taking the work out of a gerbil’s diet has created something the species hasn't had to deal with before – boredom. If we make gerbils work for their food - place their hay, treats and veggies in hard-to-reach places, or inside/underneath other objects, we add the interest and challenge back into mealtime, and suddenly they have a lot less spare time on their hands!
Handling
The small size and fast speed of gerbils can make them delicate and difficult to catch and handle. When picking them up, makes sure you support the gerbil’s whole body securely. Do not drop a gerbil, as this can cause serious injury. If the gerbil is struggling, put her down gently.
Psychology Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while gerbils are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: gerbils are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Gerbils are very curious. It is relatively easy to ear their trust, and once you have it they are very affectionate. Gerbils are extremely social and should be interacted with daily and consistently by both humans and other gerbils if they are to have an enjoyable life as a pet.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of degu is 6-9 years, but some have been reported to have lived up to 13 years.
Diet
Hay:
Like rabbits and guinea pigs, degus require an unlimited supply of grass-based hay at all times, as this will form the base of their diet. Including several varieties (Timothy hay, Brome hay, Meadow Grass, etc) can encourage the degu to eat more hay.
Degu Pellets:
A special degu pellet is the healthiest for a degu, but if it is unavailable, a mixture of ½ chinchilla, ½ guinea pig pellets can be given. However, be sure that these pellets don’t use molasses as their binding agent, as this can be harmful to degus. Pellet intake should be limited, a ¼ cup lasting about a week.
Fresh Veggies:
Small amounts (1/2 tsp per serving) of fresh greens and low-sugar vegetables should be given on a daily basis.
Seeds:
Seeds may be enjoyed but should be limited as a special treat only, and not used as a regular part of the diet.
Unique Dietary Considerations
Perhaps the most remarkable feature of degu physiology is their intolerance of dietary sugar. Degus have been found to have a divergent insulin structure and so are highly susceptible to developing diabetes mellitus when fed regularly on a diet containing free sugars. This is thought to be due to evolutionary pressure arising from the lack of availability of free sugars in the degu's natural environment. Degus must not be fed any fruits or treats high in sugar, and care must be taken to avoid molasses as a binding agent in their pellets. If fed foods high in sugar, degus will quickly become diabetic.
Like guinea pigs and humans, degus do not produce their own vitamin C. Therefore, attention must be given to ensuring a degu’s diet contains enough of this essential vitamin, through fresh pellets rich in vitamin C (must be used within 30 days of milling, or the vitamin C dissipates), and dark, leafy greens rich in the vitamin. If not attended to, degus are at risk of developing scurvy.
Water
Degus can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the degu will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your degu fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean.
Litter Training
If started at a young age, many degu caregivers are successful at litter training their pet degus. The easiest this to do is watch to see what area (usually a corner) the degu is using as his toilet, and putting a small litter box in that spot.
Bedding
Acceptable beddings for the litter box, pen or cage include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding products, and hemp bedding. It’s often best to use cardboard, towels or blankets (without loose threads the degu can ingest) throughout most of the cage, as it is less likely to contribute to respiratory issues due to dust level, allergies, and moisture build-up.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your degu. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many degus will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface your degu walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for degus, especially the clumping kind. Degus may ingest these and they can lead to serious complications in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, degus do not need baths, and will do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean if provided with a proper dust bath. In fact, water bathing a degu can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended.
Housing
Appropriate housing for degus needs to provide enough space to run, climb to at least two levels, dig, and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. There must be space for a dust bath. An exercise wheel and a tunnel are also recommended. For an average degu or a pair of degus, we should be looking at a cage that is approximately 32”x16”x28”.
Degus should be socially housed in same-sex groups of 2-6. As colony animals, this is very important to the stress level and quality of life of the degus. Every effort should be made to adopt bonded clans together, as separation can cause depression, lethargy and anorexia. Cages need to have adequate space for the total number of degus housed, as well as allow for many environmental enrichment opportunities and activities.
Exercise and Environmental Enrichment
In the wild, degus spend 5-6 hours of their day traveling long distances foraging for food, and they live in extensive underground burrows. Although shelter housing will not be able to accommodate this kind of space, a change in attitude towards housing small mammals has to occur. They need space to run, play, burrow, and climb, store food, and have a dust bath. Safe exercise wheels can be a fun activity, but are ultimately a poor substitute for adequate space.
Ideally, degus should spend a minimum of 1 hour a day between human socialization and a large play area. Some possible enrichment ideas for degus are cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls, hanging toys, ladders, tunnels, digging space, exercise wheels and dust baths.
Foraging is one of the easiest and most important means of environmental enrichment. In the wild, degus spend a lot of their time searching for food. With so much to do just to keep fed, wild degus are rarely bored.
Why is it then, that as soon as we domesticated degus, we assumed that they would appreciate being tossed a bowl of pellets and be done with it? In fact, taking the work out of a degu’s diet has created something the species hasn't had to deal with before – boredom. If we make degus work for their food - place their hay, treats and veggies in hard-to-reach places, or inside/underneath other objects, we add the interest and challenge back into mealtime, and suddenly they have a lot less spare time on their hands!
Handling
The small size of degus can make them delicate and difficult to handle. When picking them up, try to use both hands and support the degu’s whole body securely. Do not drop a degu, as this can cause serious injury. If the degu is struggling, put her down gently.
Never hold or catch a degu by its tail. As part of a natural defnse mechanism, degus will lose the end of their tails.
Psychology Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while degus are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: degus are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Compared to other small animals, degus seem fearless. It is relatively easy to ear their trust, and once you have it they are very affectionate. Degus are extremely social and should be interacted with daily and consistently by both humans and other degus if they are to have an enjoyable life as a pet.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of chinchilla is 10-18 years. The oldest known domestic chinchilla lived for 30 years.
Diet
Hay: Like rabbits and guinea pigs, chinchillas require an unlimited supply of grass-based hay at all times, as this will form the base of their diet. Including several varieties (Timothy hay, Brome hay, Meadow Grass, etc) can encourage the chinchilla to eat more hay.
Chinchilla Pellets: Chinchillas should receive 2-3 Tbsp of chinchilla pellets per day. Like guinea pigs, chinchillas do not produce their own vitamin C, and must ingest it. Be sure the chinchilla pellets you use are fresh (vitamin c will only last for 30 days from the milling date).
Fresh Veggies: Chinchillas can get 1 cup of fresh, dark, leafy greens per day.
Treats: Seeds, dried fruits, and fresh fruits can be given as an occasional treat, no more than a teaspoon a day.
Water Chinchillas can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the chinchilla will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your chinchilla fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean.
Unique Dietary Considerations
Like guinea pigs and humans, chinchillas do not produce their own vitamin C. Therefore, attention must be given to ensuring a chinchilla’s diet contains enough of this essential vitamin, through fresh pellets rich in vitamin C (must be used within 30 days of milling, or the vitamin C dissipates), and dark, leafy greens rich in the vitamin. If not attended to, chinchillas are at risk of developing scurvy.
Chewing wood: Although the natural activity of chewing hay will keep a chinchilla’s teeth trim, wood and rope toys are an excellent and fun enrichment activity and should be offered.
Litter Training
If started at a young age, many chinchilla caregivers are successful at litter training their pet chinchy. The easiest this to do is watch to see what area (usually a corner) the chinchilla is using as his toilet, and putting a small litter box in that spot.
Bedding Acceptable beddings for the litter box or cage include Aspen wood shavings, recycled newspaper bedding products, and hemp bedding. It’s often best to use cardboard, towels or blankets (without loose threads the chinchilla can ingest) throughout most of the cage, as it is less likely to contribute to respiratory issues due to dust level, allergies, and moisture build-up.
NEVER use: Cedar or Pine shavings. These are soft woods and their emissions are actually harmful for your chinchilla. These will cause respiratory troubles and can eventually lead to liver failure, from constant filtering of the toxins. Don’t use corn cob bedding as many chinchillas will ingest this and clog their digestive systems. It is also not wise to use regular newspaper as the surface your chinchilla walks on as they can both chew the newspaper and ingest the toxins of the ink, as well as lick them off their paws when cleaning the black stains from their feet. Clay kitty litter should not be used for chinchillas, especially the clumping kind. Chinchillas may ingest these and they can lead to serious complications in the digestive tract.
Grooming
In general, chinchillas do not need baths, and will do an excellent job of keeping themselves clean if provided with a proper dust bath. In fact, water bathing a chinchilla can interfere with his natural skin oils, and is not recommended.
Housing
Appropriate housing for chinchillas needs to provide enough space to run, jump, climb, and forage, as well as at least one good place to hide. It must contain food and water, and possibly a litter box. There must be space for a dust bath. An extra-large exercise wheel and a tunnel are also recommended. For an average chinchilla, we should be looking at a cage that is at least 36”x24"x36".
Although naturally social creatures, shelter chinchillas should be housed singly, unless they come in as a bonded pair, or a natural bond has seemed to develop in the shelter. Unacquainted chinchillas can fight, literally to death, and chinchillas can be very territorial of their cages.
Keep in mind that a healthy chinchilla has no difficulty jumping as high as 5' so consideration should be given to vertical space when choosing housing.
Exercise and Environmental Enrichment
In the wild, chinchillas spend 5-6 hours of their day traveling long distances foraging for food. Although shelter housing will not be able to accommodate this kind of space, a change in attitude towards housing chinchillas has to occur. They need space to run, jump, play, burrow, and climb, store food, and have a dust bath. Safe extra-large exercise wheels can be a fun activity, but are ultimately a poor substitute for adequate space.
Chinchillas should spend a minimum of 2 hours a day between human socialization and a large play area. Some possible enrichment ideas for chinchillas are cardboard boxes, toilet paper rolls, hanging toys, rope toys, ladders, tunnels, digging space, extra-large exercise wheels and dust baths.
Foraging is one of the easiest and most important means of environmental enrichment. In the wild, chinchillas spend a lot of their time searching for food. With so much to do just to keep fed, wild chinchillas are rarely bored.
Why is it then, that as soon as we domesticated chinchillas, we assumed that they would appreciate being tossed a bowl of pellets and be done with it? In fact, taking the work out of a chinchilla’s diet has created something the species hasn't had to deal with before – boredom. If we make chinchillas work for their food - place their hay, treats and veggies in hard-to-reach places, or inside/underneath other objects, we add the interest and challenge back into mealtime, and suddenly they have a lot less spare time on their hands!
Handling
Chinchillas are delicate, and can be squirmy and difficult to handle. When picking them up, try to use both hands and support the chinchilla’s whole body securely. Do not drop a chinchilla, as this can cause serious injury. If the chinchilla is struggling, put her down gently.
Never hold or catch a chinchilla by its tail. As part of a natural defense mechanism, chinchillas will lose the end of their tails.
Psychology
Many people assume that all pets think the same way as dogs and cats, but his is not at all the case. By nature, cats and dogs are predators, while chinchillas are prey. This creates and entirely different way of looking at the world, different behaviour, and a whole new psychology. If you stop to think about it, it makes sense: chinchillas are at the bottom of the food chain. Everything can eat them and they are never safe.
Chinchillas are very active, almost hyper animals with intense curiosity about their surroundings. Once you gain their trust, they will show great loyalty.
Average Lifespan
The average lifespan of a ferret is 7-10 years, but have been known to live up to 15 years.
Diet
Ferrets require a very specialized diet, and thankfully ferret diets are now readily available in pet stores. In the wild, polecats would eat mostly small mammals, but would consume not just the meat, but also the organs and some of the bones. Therefore, a raw meat diet will not meet a ferret’s dietary needs, and can even be dangerous. Ferrets should be offered food free choice, with fresh food always available. They metabolize very quickly and will need to eat at least every 3-4 hours. In general, they self-regulate very well and should not become obese so long as they are provided with adequate exercise.
Water
Ferrets can drink from either a water bottle or a water bowl, although some of them will prefer one or the other. Water bottles are often considered healthier because they are less likely to collect debris like bedding and hair that the ferret will end up ingesting. However, a water bottle often leads to laziness in how often fresh water is given as they can be filled to last for several days. Either way, it is most important to give your ferret fresh water every day and to ensure the bottle or bowl stays clean.
Litter Training
In general, caregivers to ferrets are very successful at litter training their pets. A litter box should be fixed in place, in the area the ferret would naturally soil (usually a corner). It is universally accepted that dust-free, pelleted recycled newspaper litter is the safest and wisest choice.
Bedding
The bottom of a ferret’s cage can be lined with cardboard, and topped with several layers of towels/blankets, which the ferrets will use to burrow into.
Grooming
Although many people bathe their ferrets regularly to help alleviate the natural musk smell, it’s not advisable to bathe ferrets any more than once a month, as it will destroy their natural oils and cause skin irritation.
Nails should be clipped about every 2 months, and if they aren’t kept trimmed can cause the ferret to lose its grip and fall, potentially causing serious injury.
Ferrets have 2 major sheds a year (spring and fall), and should be brushed every day during this time to help mitigate the ingestion of hair. Unlike cats, ferrets do not “cough up” hairballs, and they can end up causing serious blockages.
A ferret’s ears should be cleaned about once a month to prevent build-up of ear wax, and check for any infestation of ear mites.
Teeth should be brushed twice a month to prevent tarter build-up and tooth decay.
Housing
Appropriate housing for ferrets who needs to provide enough space to run, climb, and play, as well as at least one good place to hide/burrow. It must contain food and water, and a litter box. A tunnel and hammock are also recommended. For an average ferret, you should be looking at a cage that is at least 36”x24"x36".
Ferrets can be housed singly, or in bonded groups of up to 6. However, cage size will have to increase to accommodate extras. Bonded ferrets should be adopted together, as separation can cause depression, lethargy and anorexia.
Exercise and Environmental Enrichment
In the wild, ancestors of the domestic ferret will have a home range of at least one square km, and will travel throughout this area on a daily basis in search of prey. Although your housing will not be able to accommodate this kind of space, a change in attitude towards housing ferrets has to occur. They need space to run, play, burrow, and climb.
Ferrets should spend a minimum of 2-4 hours a day between human socialization and a large play area. Some possible enrichment ideas for ferrets are hammocks, pillow cases, cardboard boxes and paper bags, stuffed toys, hard plastic toys and balls, hanging rope toys, rattles and teething rings, pipes, tubes and tunnels. Avoid soft plastic or rubber, as the ferret will chew and likely ingest these, causing potentially dangerous blockages.
Handling
Ferrets are hard to break. Their extremely flexible spines allow for an unbelievable range of motion. Do not drop a ferret, as this can cause serious injury. However, as long as you are holding a ferret gently but securely, there is little possibility of injury during regular handling.
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